castrol r4 superbike oilWhat is the best motorcycle superbike oil?
All name brand oils are good.
If you go synthetic it lasts longer and costs more
If you go conventional it must be change at 3K miles but costs 1/2 as much.
The oil is much less important than most think. the important part is changing it when needed.
Asking what oil is the best is just asking opinions. no one really knows which is best and today the oils out last the recommended changing intervals so which oil last when run dry or in worst case really does not matter.
I use Modile 1 in everything I own from my bikes, truck and Vett. I do this because I know it is good oil and i want the same for all vehicles. Makes life easier.What is the best motorcycle superbike oil?
STOP SPAMING WITH THE ';BIKERKISS'; ADVERTISING
O.K. you need to understand the difference in the weights of oil out there and most of the explain to you what their range is.
eg: 5W - 50 might be what you use! The 5 denotes the temperature range that your oil will work best in! ie: 10 degrees celius to 40 degrees celius!
The 50 has to do with what the oil has in it, but most of we need to know is on the front of the bottle.
Synthetic oil offers probably the best protection for your RUN IN ENGINE as it has better lubricity properties!
It will never be suggested to you to run in a brand new engine with full synthetic oil as it will never get the chance to bed the engine in!
There are also detergents that keep your engine oil clean, to prevent gumming up of parts and oil galeries.
But to us, the most important thing to look for is that you follow what type of oil you use for your given area ie: temperature range and consider using synthetic to prolong the life of your engine!
Don't let yourself think though that you can extend the life of your oil change by using synthetic!
If you don' trust the mechanic to put the oil in you want, do it yourself. It's easy and if you don't know, ask a few people and they will be more than willing to hepl you out. The filter gets done at the same time as well. Don't skip it!
Troy.
LOOK INTO ROYAL PURPLE BECAUSE IT WORKS GREAT IN ALL OF MY VEHICLES.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Will a classic motorcycle seize up if i store it without oil?
I am looking to buy a classic motorcycle, to maybe ride 2 or 3 times a year, but the only place i can store it is in a self storage facility and they want me to drain oil and petrol from the bike. Is this going to cause any problems?Will a classic motorcycle seize up if i store it without oil?
Use fuel stabilizer and drain the carb(s) when it's going to be stored for a while. If it has a battery, take it home with you and connect it to a Battery Tender or similar charger. Draining the oil should not be a problem. The viscosity of the oil will make it cling to all parts, forming a protective coating. A bit of oil in the spark plug holes will keep the piston rings from rusting to the bore(s).
When restarting it after a long break, I would refill the oil first, turn the engine over a few times to spread it around (easily done with the spark plugs removed), and then add the gas and start it up.Will a classic motorcycle seize up if i store it without oil?
Like the others have said, as long as you put a little bit of oil down the spark plug holes you will not have any problems with the engine seizing. Enough oil should remain on the bearings to prevent any problems.
I do see a potential problem though.
On a motorcycle with a metal fuel tank they should be stored with a full tank of fuel. This is because condensation can build up in an empty fuel tank and cause rust. So watch for rust inside the fuel tank.
However if the storage facility is climate controlled there will be less possibility of rust inside the fuel tank as the temperature will be more stable and you will have less condensation.
My first reaction was ';Drain the petrol but not the oil'; but now I think of it, I can't see any problems with draining the oil too. The oil will drain down out of the engine regardless and whether it lays in the sump (or tank if its a dry sump bike), or the sump is empty, it would make no difference that I can think of.
The only problem I can think of is that the oil pump will also be empty, so you would have to turn the engine over a few times before starting it, each time you filled it back up again, but this is no different to changing the oil during a routine maintenance. Probably wouldn''t hurt to put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder before storage too.
What bike are you getting?
A solution used by some people in military going to Iraq and the old classic storage for winter- Run motor unti fully warmed, stop engine, drain gas tank, add gallon of kerosene to gas tank and start engine again until smoking good and or engine dies. drain gas tank and engine oil as storage area requires. Another way is use of 'fogging oil' for storage- run engine and spray in carb or air cleaner unti engine dies. In both cases you have coated air intake, carb bowls and jets, valve stems and guides, cylinder walls with light oil mix. when you get it back out of storage in less than a year you'll need to clean plugs and put in fresh gas, new oil anyway, trickle battery. A couple shots of gasoline in aircleaner and try starting, will smoke a bit but should run fairly good after couple miles. Carb bowl drain may be needed- old Amal equiped BSA and Triumphs just needed plunger button down 10 seconds, a second retry if engine sputtered and died in 30 seconds. This if fuel tank wasn't shut off while engine ran to drain bowls.
Potentially yes it will but it does depend on the type of storage you are keeping it in. The biggest danger after storing it 'dry' is that any condensation there might be, settles on the parts that need oil and rust sets in. It's never advisable to have no oil in an engine at all. If you have no other option than to store it like this then I'd change the oil that's already in, add something like slick 50, and give it a good run before draining the oil. Once you are ready to store it spray wd40 all over the engine to expel any moisture and leave the engine uncovered so the air can get around it. Hope this helps
1 . Petrol - just draining it will be a nightmare when you come to use it again as deposits will form from the bits of fuel left and gum up the carbs. You would have to completely make sure no petrol was left in it.
2. The engine will actually rust internally if left with no oil for long. Some engines can seize if left like this. needs to have normal oil in all the time and turned over although not started every week.
Unless you can find a more friendly place to keep it I would not bother.
Yes, the motorcycle should be fine in a self storage unit. At least in a good one anyway. I use storage deluxe for my cars and boats and I have never had a problem. They have a climate control system for each unit and that really helps. You should look them up and see twhat they have to offer. They come highly recommended.
I've got a couple of bikes in storage and as long as you have a dry storage area, your bike will be OK without oil for several months.
A good idea is to put some oil (1 tablespoon) in the cylinders through the spark pugs holes before storing.
why drain the oil?
fuel sure can do that but can just add fuel stabizer really dont see a need to buy a bike if you not going to ride it all one can mine i ride if it starts and theres no rain if you going to ride three times a year rent a bike
In short yes, as long as you turn it over occasionally you can drain it or not drain it
WHEN U DRAIN OIL FROM THE ENGIEN THEN ENGIEN WILL START TO CORRODE FROM BEARINGS ANS OKTHER PARTS. SAFE SIDE TO KEEP THAT WITH OIL AND BEFORE STARTING DRAIN IT AND USE NEW OIL.
Use fuel stabilizer and drain the carb(s) when it's going to be stored for a while. If it has a battery, take it home with you and connect it to a Battery Tender or similar charger. Draining the oil should not be a problem. The viscosity of the oil will make it cling to all parts, forming a protective coating. A bit of oil in the spark plug holes will keep the piston rings from rusting to the bore(s).
When restarting it after a long break, I would refill the oil first, turn the engine over a few times to spread it around (easily done with the spark plugs removed), and then add the gas and start it up.Will a classic motorcycle seize up if i store it without oil?
Like the others have said, as long as you put a little bit of oil down the spark plug holes you will not have any problems with the engine seizing. Enough oil should remain on the bearings to prevent any problems.
I do see a potential problem though.
On a motorcycle with a metal fuel tank they should be stored with a full tank of fuel. This is because condensation can build up in an empty fuel tank and cause rust. So watch for rust inside the fuel tank.
However if the storage facility is climate controlled there will be less possibility of rust inside the fuel tank as the temperature will be more stable and you will have less condensation.
My first reaction was ';Drain the petrol but not the oil'; but now I think of it, I can't see any problems with draining the oil too. The oil will drain down out of the engine regardless and whether it lays in the sump (or tank if its a dry sump bike), or the sump is empty, it would make no difference that I can think of.
The only problem I can think of is that the oil pump will also be empty, so you would have to turn the engine over a few times before starting it, each time you filled it back up again, but this is no different to changing the oil during a routine maintenance. Probably wouldn''t hurt to put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder before storage too.
What bike are you getting?
A solution used by some people in military going to Iraq and the old classic storage for winter- Run motor unti fully warmed, stop engine, drain gas tank, add gallon of kerosene to gas tank and start engine again until smoking good and or engine dies. drain gas tank and engine oil as storage area requires. Another way is use of 'fogging oil' for storage- run engine and spray in carb or air cleaner unti engine dies. In both cases you have coated air intake, carb bowls and jets, valve stems and guides, cylinder walls with light oil mix. when you get it back out of storage in less than a year you'll need to clean plugs and put in fresh gas, new oil anyway, trickle battery. A couple shots of gasoline in aircleaner and try starting, will smoke a bit but should run fairly good after couple miles. Carb bowl drain may be needed- old Amal equiped BSA and Triumphs just needed plunger button down 10 seconds, a second retry if engine sputtered and died in 30 seconds. This if fuel tank wasn't shut off while engine ran to drain bowls.
Potentially yes it will but it does depend on the type of storage you are keeping it in. The biggest danger after storing it 'dry' is that any condensation there might be, settles on the parts that need oil and rust sets in. It's never advisable to have no oil in an engine at all. If you have no other option than to store it like this then I'd change the oil that's already in, add something like slick 50, and give it a good run before draining the oil. Once you are ready to store it spray wd40 all over the engine to expel any moisture and leave the engine uncovered so the air can get around it. Hope this helps
1 . Petrol - just draining it will be a nightmare when you come to use it again as deposits will form from the bits of fuel left and gum up the carbs. You would have to completely make sure no petrol was left in it.
2. The engine will actually rust internally if left with no oil for long. Some engines can seize if left like this. needs to have normal oil in all the time and turned over although not started every week.
Unless you can find a more friendly place to keep it I would not bother.
Yes, the motorcycle should be fine in a self storage unit. At least in a good one anyway. I use storage deluxe for my cars and boats and I have never had a problem. They have a climate control system for each unit and that really helps. You should look them up and see twhat they have to offer. They come highly recommended.
I've got a couple of bikes in storage and as long as you have a dry storage area, your bike will be OK without oil for several months.
A good idea is to put some oil (1 tablespoon) in the cylinders through the spark pugs holes before storing.
why drain the oil?
fuel sure can do that but can just add fuel stabizer really dont see a need to buy a bike if you not going to ride it all one can mine i ride if it starts and theres no rain if you going to ride three times a year rent a bike
In short yes, as long as you turn it over occasionally you can drain it or not drain it
WHEN U DRAIN OIL FROM THE ENGIEN THEN ENGIEN WILL START TO CORRODE FROM BEARINGS ANS OKTHER PARTS. SAFE SIDE TO KEEP THAT WITH OIL AND BEFORE STARTING DRAIN IT AND USE NEW OIL.
How difficult is it to put new oil seals on the front fork of a motorcycle, and what seals would I need to buy
The bike is a 1987 Yamaha FZ750 with 20,000 miles. The forks are not real soft, but leaking oil and getting worse.How difficult is it to put new oil seals on the front fork of a motorcycle, and what seals would I need to buy
not hard at all you will need to buy a tool to seat the sealHow difficult is it to put new oil seals on the front fork of a motorcycle, and what seals would I need to buy
yea its ot hard at all
I found that I couldn't do fork seals without air tools.
easy.. go here %26amp; learn.. tells you how to do all sorts of stuff bike related..
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
not hard at all you will need to buy a tool to seat the sealHow difficult is it to put new oil seals on the front fork of a motorcycle, and what seals would I need to buy
yea its ot hard at all
I found that I couldn't do fork seals without air tools.
easy.. go here %26amp; learn.. tells you how to do all sorts of stuff bike related..
http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.ht鈥?/a>
How much oil do I need when changing oil on a custom 750 Honda motorcycle? What's the best oil to use?
If it's a standard Honda 750 in-line 4 cyl engine, it should take about 3.8 quarts of oil. It would help to know what year the bike is.
As far as oil is concerned, I'd use Amsoil 10w 40 Motorcycle oil.
http://www.amsoil.com/How much oil do I need when changing oil on a custom 750 Honda motorcycle? What's the best oil to use?
The exact number depends on which model, but I've owned three Hondas from 500 to 1000 ccs, and they all took between four and five quarts at oil and filter change.
My favorite oil for Hondas is Mobile1 20W-50 Extended Performance. I change once a year at the end of the riding season.
Just don't use any oil that is ';Energy Conserving.'; Such oils contain ';moly,'; which is rumored to adhere to wet clutches and make them slip, although there is some debate on that.How much oil do I need when changing oil on a custom 750 Honda motorcycle? What's the best oil to use?
quantity depends on the model but I'd say any good quality 10w/40 oil would be fine.
Buy 4 quarts.
It takes more than 3 and less than 4
Any brand name motor oil is fine.
10w 40 in cold weather.
20w 50 in warm weather.
If it's an early SOHC 750, that would depend on the oil tank size.
';Read the Manual, Luke.';soap opera
As far as oil is concerned, I'd use Amsoil 10w 40 Motorcycle oil.
http://www.amsoil.com/How much oil do I need when changing oil on a custom 750 Honda motorcycle? What's the best oil to use?
The exact number depends on which model, but I've owned three Hondas from 500 to 1000 ccs, and they all took between four and five quarts at oil and filter change.
My favorite oil for Hondas is Mobile1 20W-50 Extended Performance. I change once a year at the end of the riding season.
Just don't use any oil that is ';Energy Conserving.'; Such oils contain ';moly,'; which is rumored to adhere to wet clutches and make them slip, although there is some debate on that.How much oil do I need when changing oil on a custom 750 Honda motorcycle? What's the best oil to use?
quantity depends on the model but I'd say any good quality 10w/40 oil would be fine.
Buy 4 quarts.
It takes more than 3 and less than 4
Any brand name motor oil is fine.
10w 40 in cold weather.
20w 50 in warm weather.
If it's an early SOHC 750, that would depend on the oil tank size.
';Read the Manual, Luke.';
What oil do you really need for motorcycle engines?
Is there really a difference in motorcycle oil vs car oil? What is it?What oil do you really need for motorcycle engines?
A big difference is wet clutch compatibility, as well as shearing of oil in the transmission. check out Amsoil: http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=14鈥?/a>What oil do you really need for motorcycle engines?
Motorcycle oil and automobile oil come from the same factories, they just have different labelling. Quality oil is quality oil and it's refined in exactly the same manner.
Get a motor oil without friction modifiers, moly, or anything that says 'energy conserving' as it can cause clutch slippage. Otherwise you can use any reputable brand of motor oil that matches the grade mentioned in your owners manual.
Ride Safe!
Some mc oils have more sulfur and other additives to carry off heat. I don't know that its a factor, what with liquid cooled engines and the modern metallurgical techniques used in the manufacture of air cooled bikes.
You can use automotive oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers. 10W40 and heavier usually don't. DO NOT use auto oil if the circle on the back label has ';Saves Energy'; or similar words.
Most important is regular oil changes.
I use 20w-50 in my Harley
yes motorcycle oil is way thicker.......
cars need thinner oil to properly circulate.
motorcycles don't run in winter so they use thicker oil and have smaller engines.....hope that helps
just make sure you check that the rating (SJ SL etc.) matches what your bike calls for and that it does not say energy conserving, as that type and wet clutches do not go well together and will cause the clutch to slip
The only difference is the marketing and the price. Good quality oil is good quality oil. Just use the weight that the manufacturer recomends
Now realize, I'm gonna get blasted for saying this but I'm used to it.
Patriot and chyenne have it right.
The oils are different. Why not spend a dollar more a quart and run what the manufactures spend millions testing in their motors. base stocks may come from a similar source but the additive packages are added buy the indvidual
cars use thinner oils today because the motors have tighter tolerences Google oil viscosities and you will learn more
m/c oil is formulated for higher temperatures specifically found in motorcycles. you can get by in an emergency but always use m/c oil in a mc
I use Castrol, the same stuff that goes into cars. 10w30 in the winter; mix of 10w40 and 20w50 in the summer.
My motorcycle is a 1985 Yamaha Virago 700 with about 80,000 miles on it.
Don't put in the stuff with ';slick'; additives.
Motorcycles don't run in winter? HAH! In Kansas they do...anyway, the oil question...it's not as much about heat, it's about shear factors...shearing takes place in the transmission, which on many bikes is lubricated by the same oil as the engine. (Harley owners, disregard this) As oil passes between the gear faces, which develop tremendous pressure during acceleration, the molecular chains in the oil molecules actully get cut, or ';sheared';. Motorcycle oils are formulated to have longer molecular chains and thus hold up better in this application. Brand isn't as important as formulation. I've run Jap bikes since 1978 and always used Hondalube GN-4 with excellent results...K ;o)
just checked the repair manual for my kawasaki. after the '01 model, it says the newer auto oils are ok as long as they aren't marked energy conserving, but 2000 and earlier required m/c oil only. best to check your specific manual to see. i'll be using automotive oil in mine from now on and pocketing the savings.
gary
A big difference is wet clutch compatibility, as well as shearing of oil in the transmission. check out Amsoil: http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=14鈥?/a>What oil do you really need for motorcycle engines?
Motorcycle oil and automobile oil come from the same factories, they just have different labelling. Quality oil is quality oil and it's refined in exactly the same manner.
Get a motor oil without friction modifiers, moly, or anything that says 'energy conserving' as it can cause clutch slippage. Otherwise you can use any reputable brand of motor oil that matches the grade mentioned in your owners manual.
Ride Safe!
Some mc oils have more sulfur and other additives to carry off heat. I don't know that its a factor, what with liquid cooled engines and the modern metallurgical techniques used in the manufacture of air cooled bikes.
You can use automotive oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers. 10W40 and heavier usually don't. DO NOT use auto oil if the circle on the back label has ';Saves Energy'; or similar words.
Most important is regular oil changes.
I use 20w-50 in my Harley
yes motorcycle oil is way thicker.......
cars need thinner oil to properly circulate.
motorcycles don't run in winter so they use thicker oil and have smaller engines.....hope that helps
just make sure you check that the rating (SJ SL etc.) matches what your bike calls for and that it does not say energy conserving, as that type and wet clutches do not go well together and will cause the clutch to slip
The only difference is the marketing and the price. Good quality oil is good quality oil. Just use the weight that the manufacturer recomends
Now realize, I'm gonna get blasted for saying this but I'm used to it.
Patriot and chyenne have it right.
The oils are different. Why not spend a dollar more a quart and run what the manufactures spend millions testing in their motors. base stocks may come from a similar source but the additive packages are added buy the indvidual
cars use thinner oils today because the motors have tighter tolerences Google oil viscosities and you will learn more
m/c oil is formulated for higher temperatures specifically found in motorcycles. you can get by in an emergency but always use m/c oil in a mc
I use Castrol, the same stuff that goes into cars. 10w30 in the winter; mix of 10w40 and 20w50 in the summer.
My motorcycle is a 1985 Yamaha Virago 700 with about 80,000 miles on it.
Don't put in the stuff with ';slick'; additives.
Motorcycles don't run in winter? HAH! In Kansas they do...anyway, the oil question...it's not as much about heat, it's about shear factors...shearing takes place in the transmission, which on many bikes is lubricated by the same oil as the engine. (Harley owners, disregard this) As oil passes between the gear faces, which develop tremendous pressure during acceleration, the molecular chains in the oil molecules actully get cut, or ';sheared';. Motorcycle oils are formulated to have longer molecular chains and thus hold up better in this application. Brand isn't as important as formulation. I've run Jap bikes since 1978 and always used Hondalube GN-4 with excellent results...K ;o)
just checked the repair manual for my kawasaki. after the '01 model, it says the newer auto oils are ok as long as they aren't marked energy conserving, but 2000 and earlier required m/c oil only. best to check your specific manual to see. i'll be using automotive oil in mine from now on and pocketing the savings.
gary
What is the oil capacity of a 1990 yamaha xt350 dual sport motorcycle?
I changed my oil last night, though couldnt find anything in the owners manual telling me how much oil to use.What is the oil capacity of a 1990 yamaha xt350 dual sport motorcycle?
does it have a dipstick?
does it have a dipstick?
Saturday, December 26, 2009
How do I change the oil and coolant in my Yamaha YZF 600 motorcycle?
Where can I find the type of filter I need? What type of oil do I use? What type of coolant?How do I change the oil and coolant in my Yamaha YZF 600 motorcycle?
You can get a FRAM filter from Advanced Auto Parts for like $6. You can tell the cashier the year, make , and model and he can tell you the model number of the specific filter for your bike. I just bought a filter and 4 quarts for $11.
Pull your lower and upper front fairings off. The drain plug is near the kickstand switch. It's the only bolt that doesn't hold anything on. It's an 1/2 socket on my bike. Righty tighty, lefty loosie. if it's tight you may need to spray some wd40 to loosen it. You can drain it into anything. The pan I use is too high so I have to sit my kickstand in the pan and let it drain in and clean my stand after. After it all drains out put the plug back in. If you look between the pipes coming out the front of the engine, you'll see the filter. Unscrew it. You may need to loosen it with a wrench or something. Don't worry about denting it. Don't remove it all the way just yet. First use your finger tip to put some fresh oil around the rubber gasket of the new filter. then pour about two cap fulls of fresh oil into the center chamber of the new filter. Now as a fast paced movement remove the old and in with the new. i say do it fast because oil will spill out onto your pipes. Just clean them with a damp rag when done. Hand tighten the filter only. Tight as you can with your hands. Now unscrew the oil cap and pour 3 quarts in. Close it and start the bike for about 60 seconds. Do not rev just let it idle. Next turn it off, have a buddy stand it up off the kick stand and pour more oil into it until the oil level reaches the center of both lines on the oil level gauge window. The reason you start it is to make sure oil is pumped into the filter and circulated everywhere it needs to be. You don't rev because you are running the bike with not enough oil. the 60 seconds shouldn't hurt any but reving 1/2 qt low might. So now your oil is changed.
Coolant: You'll notice a thick rubber hose coming from the radiator going down towards the drain plug. Unscrew the clamp that holds it in at the bottom and the coolant come gushing out once you loosen the hose. Once it's all out, pour a gallon of water through and just let it run right out. Put the hose back on, tighten the clamp and refill with coolant. Don't waste your money on the 50/50 stuff. You're paying for half a bottle of water. You can get water free and just 50/50 yourself. Anyhow the radiator cap is on the right side under the hand grip to the right of where the tank meets the bars. Unscrew it and fill it up. The first time full isn't full. Leave the cap off and start the bike. You'll see the coolant level go down. Leave it running and pour more into it until it's full. Turn bike off, put cap back on and you're done. You can also put some in the res under the seat if needed.
Clean up and pull off. Ride safe and have fun!
You can get a FRAM filter from Advanced Auto Parts for like $6. You can tell the cashier the year, make , and model and he can tell you the model number of the specific filter for your bike. I just bought a filter and 4 quarts for $11.
Pull your lower and upper front fairings off. The drain plug is near the kickstand switch. It's the only bolt that doesn't hold anything on. It's an 1/2 socket on my bike. Righty tighty, lefty loosie. if it's tight you may need to spray some wd40 to loosen it. You can drain it into anything. The pan I use is too high so I have to sit my kickstand in the pan and let it drain in and clean my stand after. After it all drains out put the plug back in. If you look between the pipes coming out the front of the engine, you'll see the filter. Unscrew it. You may need to loosen it with a wrench or something. Don't worry about denting it. Don't remove it all the way just yet. First use your finger tip to put some fresh oil around the rubber gasket of the new filter. then pour about two cap fulls of fresh oil into the center chamber of the new filter. Now as a fast paced movement remove the old and in with the new. i say do it fast because oil will spill out onto your pipes. Just clean them with a damp rag when done. Hand tighten the filter only. Tight as you can with your hands. Now unscrew the oil cap and pour 3 quarts in. Close it and start the bike for about 60 seconds. Do not rev just let it idle. Next turn it off, have a buddy stand it up off the kick stand and pour more oil into it until the oil level reaches the center of both lines on the oil level gauge window. The reason you start it is to make sure oil is pumped into the filter and circulated everywhere it needs to be. You don't rev because you are running the bike with not enough oil. the 60 seconds shouldn't hurt any but reving 1/2 qt low might. So now your oil is changed.
Coolant: You'll notice a thick rubber hose coming from the radiator going down towards the drain plug. Unscrew the clamp that holds it in at the bottom and the coolant come gushing out once you loosen the hose. Once it's all out, pour a gallon of water through and just let it run right out. Put the hose back on, tighten the clamp and refill with coolant. Don't waste your money on the 50/50 stuff. You're paying for half a bottle of water. You can get water free and just 50/50 yourself. Anyhow the radiator cap is on the right side under the hand grip to the right of where the tank meets the bars. Unscrew it and fill it up. The first time full isn't full. Leave the cap off and start the bike. You'll see the coolant level go down. Leave it running and pour more into it until it's full. Turn bike off, put cap back on and you're done. You can also put some in the res under the seat if needed.
Clean up and pull off. Ride safe and have fun!
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