Where can I find the type of filter I need? What type of oil do I use? What type of coolant?How do I change the oil and coolant in my Yamaha YZF 600 motorcycle?
You can get a FRAM filter from Advanced Auto Parts for like $6. You can tell the cashier the year, make , and model and he can tell you the model number of the specific filter for your bike. I just bought a filter and 4 quarts for $11.
Pull your lower and upper front fairings off. The drain plug is near the kickstand switch. It's the only bolt that doesn't hold anything on. It's an 1/2 socket on my bike. Righty tighty, lefty loosie. if it's tight you may need to spray some wd40 to loosen it. You can drain it into anything. The pan I use is too high so I have to sit my kickstand in the pan and let it drain in and clean my stand after. After it all drains out put the plug back in. If you look between the pipes coming out the front of the engine, you'll see the filter. Unscrew it. You may need to loosen it with a wrench or something. Don't worry about denting it. Don't remove it all the way just yet. First use your finger tip to put some fresh oil around the rubber gasket of the new filter. then pour about two cap fulls of fresh oil into the center chamber of the new filter. Now as a fast paced movement remove the old and in with the new. i say do it fast because oil will spill out onto your pipes. Just clean them with a damp rag when done. Hand tighten the filter only. Tight as you can with your hands. Now unscrew the oil cap and pour 3 quarts in. Close it and start the bike for about 60 seconds. Do not rev just let it idle. Next turn it off, have a buddy stand it up off the kick stand and pour more oil into it until the oil level reaches the center of both lines on the oil level gauge window. The reason you start it is to make sure oil is pumped into the filter and circulated everywhere it needs to be. You don't rev because you are running the bike with not enough oil. the 60 seconds shouldn't hurt any but reving 1/2 qt low might. So now your oil is changed.
Coolant: You'll notice a thick rubber hose coming from the radiator going down towards the drain plug. Unscrew the clamp that holds it in at the bottom and the coolant come gushing out once you loosen the hose. Once it's all out, pour a gallon of water through and just let it run right out. Put the hose back on, tighten the clamp and refill with coolant. Don't waste your money on the 50/50 stuff. You're paying for half a bottle of water. You can get water free and just 50/50 yourself. Anyhow the radiator cap is on the right side under the hand grip to the right of where the tank meets the bars. Unscrew it and fill it up. The first time full isn't full. Leave the cap off and start the bike. You'll see the coolant level go down. Leave it running and pour more into it until it's full. Turn bike off, put cap back on and you're done. You can also put some in the res under the seat if needed.
Clean up and pull off. Ride safe and have fun!
Saturday, December 26, 2009
For a motorcycle, do i have to change the oil filter everytime i change the oil?
Im guessing I do because the oil filter will just dirty the new oil, but im not sure.For a motorcycle, do i have to change the oil filter everytime i change the oil?
Most manufacturers recommend changing the filter only every 2nd oil change. Most people (me included) ignore this directive and change the filter every time the oil is changed.
If you don't change the filter, the small amount of oil that remains in the filter is not going to have much impact by way of contaminating the new oil. A dirty oil filter itself will not contaminate the new oil: either it isn't clogged, in which case it filters out bad stuff from the oil or it is clogged in which case it gets bypassed.For a motorcycle, do i have to change the oil filter everytime i change the oil?
It's cheap insurance, but if the PITA aspect of it causes you to wait too long, then skip it every other time. I know you can dump the oil in my GSXR without touching the plastic, but you need to take off one side of the lower to get to the filter. I have done a filterless change before, but the oil actually wasn't due for a change yet anyway. In my Buell, it takes about 30 seconds to change the filter, so that always gets changed with the oil.
So....
You don't HAVE to do it, but in a perfect world, you would. If you are in a pinch and having to change the filter means the oil change isn't going to get done? Just dump the oil and don't stress about it.
You really can't go wrong following the manufactures service advice.
If there are enough contaminants in your filter to require replacing at every oil change (beyond the first change after running in or after fitting a new engine) there is a problem with the engine which is beyond an oil change to repair or contain. Keep an eye on the contents of the filter, but there is no mechanical need to replace it except for peace of mind.
My manual says every other time, but I normally change every time. Cheap insurance I figure. If you buy el-cheapo filters, then you definitely should. One cheap brand (Emgo or something like that) has a warning printed on the box that you should change the filter every 1500 miles. That's between oil changes! I go with OEM filters, they cost more but I know they're quality products.
i would you are probley asking this question because the manual says to only change the oil at 4000 miles because you changed the oil filter out at 600 miles i would still change the oil filter it is like taking a **** and not wiping get what im saying just do the oil filter with the oil change all the time
Yes - for any engine that has an oil filter, it should be changed with the oil. It contains oil and crud it's collected, not changing it would compromise the quality of the change itself.
Yeah you change out the filter everything you change the oil.. depending on when you change it is actually up to how much you ride.. and the type of oil you run from convention to syn. but usually around 3,000 mi is it..
it is highly recommended. of course, no one can force you to do it. the filter is not that expensive, so for peace of mind, I think it's worth it.
especially if it's a bike that the clutch runs in oil.
and besides it's cheap insurance, especially on a small
engine.
absolutely, what could it possibly harm by doing so
Yes, and you should change your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles.
You do not have to but you should.
I always do.
for peace of mind, just change it.,
Most manufacturers recommend changing the filter only every 2nd oil change. Most people (me included) ignore this directive and change the filter every time the oil is changed.
If you don't change the filter, the small amount of oil that remains in the filter is not going to have much impact by way of contaminating the new oil. A dirty oil filter itself will not contaminate the new oil: either it isn't clogged, in which case it filters out bad stuff from the oil or it is clogged in which case it gets bypassed.For a motorcycle, do i have to change the oil filter everytime i change the oil?
It's cheap insurance, but if the PITA aspect of it causes you to wait too long, then skip it every other time. I know you can dump the oil in my GSXR without touching the plastic, but you need to take off one side of the lower to get to the filter. I have done a filterless change before, but the oil actually wasn't due for a change yet anyway. In my Buell, it takes about 30 seconds to change the filter, so that always gets changed with the oil.
So....
You don't HAVE to do it, but in a perfect world, you would. If you are in a pinch and having to change the filter means the oil change isn't going to get done? Just dump the oil and don't stress about it.
You really can't go wrong following the manufactures service advice.
If there are enough contaminants in your filter to require replacing at every oil change (beyond the first change after running in or after fitting a new engine) there is a problem with the engine which is beyond an oil change to repair or contain. Keep an eye on the contents of the filter, but there is no mechanical need to replace it except for peace of mind.
My manual says every other time, but I normally change every time. Cheap insurance I figure. If you buy el-cheapo filters, then you definitely should. One cheap brand (Emgo or something like that) has a warning printed on the box that you should change the filter every 1500 miles. That's between oil changes! I go with OEM filters, they cost more but I know they're quality products.
i would you are probley asking this question because the manual says to only change the oil at 4000 miles because you changed the oil filter out at 600 miles i would still change the oil filter it is like taking a **** and not wiping get what im saying just do the oil filter with the oil change all the time
Yes - for any engine that has an oil filter, it should be changed with the oil. It contains oil and crud it's collected, not changing it would compromise the quality of the change itself.
Yeah you change out the filter everything you change the oil.. depending on when you change it is actually up to how much you ride.. and the type of oil you run from convention to syn. but usually around 3,000 mi is it..
it is highly recommended. of course, no one can force you to do it. the filter is not that expensive, so for peace of mind, I think it's worth it.
especially if it's a bike that the clutch runs in oil.
and besides it's cheap insurance, especially on a small
engine.
absolutely, what could it possibly harm by doing so
Yes, and you should change your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles.
You do not have to but you should.
I always do.
for peace of mind, just change it.,
So who makes Honda's motorcycle oil filters?
Are other name brand filters like Fram the same thing?So who makes Honda's motorcycle oil filters?
Toyo RokiSo who makes Honda's motorcycle oil filters?
I used and K%26amp;N or Mobile 1 oil filters. the Mobile 1 ones are hard to find for me, but honestly i think there all the same, i mean all oil filters do the same thing, its not like your buying a turbo for your bike and debating whether to get a Garrett turbo or a GT housing. I ran on Laguna Seca with a Fram Filter nothing happen.
Factory oil filters are designed to allow proper oil pressure.Go to the dealer and save your wallet on a froze up engine by buying stock parts.
Aftermarket brand oil filters are not up to the quality standards of OEM (original equipment manufacturer).
Don't take the chance of engine damage, while trying to save a dollar.
Stock is best.
have heard of some goldwings that had
major problems with after market filters.
I had a 750 honda that had major problems,
like it locked up a cam because of oil problems
I blamed an aftermarket filter...
I'm going to disagree with the rest of these guys , and I'll tell you why . Filters do not know what vehicle they will go on ,and the same factory that makes Honda's filters also makes for others too, The filter that fits my bike (Kawasaki) is the same from a mid-sized Mazda , I can get my filter anywhere ,but I usually stick with Puralator because it's what I prefer . It cost me $5 for a better than factory filter (filtering wise) than the one from the dealer for $14. I do stay away from Fram as I believe they are crap IMO . And sorry I didn't answer your question but I believe it is a WIX filter Honda uses.
Toyo RokiSo who makes Honda's motorcycle oil filters?
I used and K%26amp;N or Mobile 1 oil filters. the Mobile 1 ones are hard to find for me, but honestly i think there all the same, i mean all oil filters do the same thing, its not like your buying a turbo for your bike and debating whether to get a Garrett turbo or a GT housing. I ran on Laguna Seca with a Fram Filter nothing happen.
Factory oil filters are designed to allow proper oil pressure.Go to the dealer and save your wallet on a froze up engine by buying stock parts.
Aftermarket brand oil filters are not up to the quality standards of OEM (original equipment manufacturer).
Don't take the chance of engine damage, while trying to save a dollar.
Stock is best.
have heard of some goldwings that had
major problems with after market filters.
I had a 750 honda that had major problems,
like it locked up a cam because of oil problems
I blamed an aftermarket filter...
I'm going to disagree with the rest of these guys , and I'll tell you why . Filters do not know what vehicle they will go on ,and the same factory that makes Honda's filters also makes for others too, The filter that fits my bike (Kawasaki) is the same from a mid-sized Mazda , I can get my filter anywhere ,but I usually stick with Puralator because it's what I prefer . It cost me $5 for a better than factory filter (filtering wise) than the one from the dealer for $14. I do stay away from Fram as I believe they are crap IMO . And sorry I didn't answer your question but I believe it is a WIX filter Honda uses.
Type of engine oil for my motorcycle?
I have a 1991 Suzuki Katana 600 and I was wondering the type of engine oil it takes? Also if my bike takes trans fluid or does the engine oil lubricate the trans.Type of engine oil for my motorcycle?
Any 4 stroke 10W40 Motorcycle Oil will work,
DO NOT use a synthetic on any older-high mileage bike, the synthetic is too thin and it will cause problems, (burning oil, or leaking)
The crankcase, clutch and transmission are all submersed in the same oil, a motorcycle oil is specially formulated to do 3 jobs, a crankcase oil, a wet clutch oil and a transmission gear oil.
IF,,, money is a problem and you can't afford to pay $8 a qt for motorcycle oil then you can use Shell Rotalla 15W40, BUT I would recommend a regular petroleum 10W40 Motorcycle OilType of engine oil for my motorcycle?
Any automotive 10w-40 or higher viscosity oil will work fine, as long as it's not ';energy conserving';. ( look on the back of the label, there should be no text in the bottom of the circle symbol) Energy conserving oil has additives that will ruin your clutch and cause it to slip. So.. yes the engine oil lubes the transmission.
I personally use Rotella T synthetic. Don't waste your money on ';MOTORCYCLE'; oil it's a total rip-off.
I would only use Suzuki approved oil from your dealer. The engine oil also lubes the trans in that model
10W30 motor oil just like what you put in your car.
anybody that says put car oil in it is a moron. it needs motorcycle oil,.. just take my word for it. use lucas or royal purple 20w50.
you can call the dealer and ask but any motorcycle oil will work.
it depends if you have a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke
Call the dealer or look in the little book that should have come with the bike. There might be a group on Yahoo groups for your bike like there is for mine where you can ask any question you want from others that have your exact model.soap opera
Any 4 stroke 10W40 Motorcycle Oil will work,
DO NOT use a synthetic on any older-high mileage bike, the synthetic is too thin and it will cause problems, (burning oil, or leaking)
The crankcase, clutch and transmission are all submersed in the same oil, a motorcycle oil is specially formulated to do 3 jobs, a crankcase oil, a wet clutch oil and a transmission gear oil.
IF,,, money is a problem and you can't afford to pay $8 a qt for motorcycle oil then you can use Shell Rotalla 15W40, BUT I would recommend a regular petroleum 10W40 Motorcycle OilType of engine oil for my motorcycle?
Any automotive 10w-40 or higher viscosity oil will work fine, as long as it's not ';energy conserving';. ( look on the back of the label, there should be no text in the bottom of the circle symbol) Energy conserving oil has additives that will ruin your clutch and cause it to slip. So.. yes the engine oil lubes the transmission.
I personally use Rotella T synthetic. Don't waste your money on ';MOTORCYCLE'; oil it's a total rip-off.
I would only use Suzuki approved oil from your dealer. The engine oil also lubes the trans in that model
10W30 motor oil just like what you put in your car.
anybody that says put car oil in it is a moron. it needs motorcycle oil,.. just take my word for it. use lucas or royal purple 20w50.
you can call the dealer and ask but any motorcycle oil will work.
it depends if you have a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke
Call the dealer or look in the little book that should have come with the bike. There might be a group on Yahoo groups for your bike like there is for mine where you can ask any question you want from others that have your exact model.
What is the best way to clean oil stains in between the fins of a motorcycle engine?
I not only have trouble getting in between the fins, but also cannot find anything that will remove all the oil and make the engine look really clean.What is the best way to clean oil stains in between the fins of a motorcycle engine?
Gunk engine degreaser.
You can by whatever brand engine degreaser at any auto parts store.
That's what it's made for. To clean dirty, oily, greasy, grimy engines.
Spray it on, let it sit for 10 min, then hose it off.
It works great and does what it's supposed to.What is the best way to clean oil stains in between the fins of a motorcycle engine?
If you really want to get excellent results without busting your marbles, try to get some Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), it works like a dream, just make sure you do not get any plastics in contact with it.
A motorcycle is not pots or pans. Do not use household cleaners on it! Use products designed for your motorcycle go to a local dealer and check out the products they carry. To get between the fins use a spoked wheel brush.
DO NOT USE EASY-OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Caustic cleaners will eat your aluminum.
It works great on iron blocks, though
Gunk degreaser is made for it.
The thinner will do it too, but you may not want that on the clearcoat on the cases.
Spray can citrus-based degreasers work ok.
I've got a few small stiff bristle nylon bottle brushes I'm gonna try out.
.
Another trick to add to the pile of good advice here: Lacquer Thinner.
Not regular ';paint thinner'; or ';mineral spirits'; -- they won't work.
Lacquer thinner will do the job. Apply with a brush you won't use again, and don't get any on the paint or plastic. Don't splatter any on your car, either!
Try WD-40 and wash it off with soap %26amp; water....
Also, if you are really serious on getting the oil stains
off the fins.
Get some long extended q-tips and remove the oil stains
by hand.
Also, check you local auto parts store like
Pep Boys or Auto Zone....They probably have
a product that you can use.
use degreaser and cotton buds need lot of time then powerwash off
w-d40 then wash with soap and water
use the diesel or thiner and wiper with a clean paper tower until it dry before you start the engine
the easiest......easy-off oven cleaner
and rinse w water......do your whole motor if you want.....
Gunk engine degreaser.
You can by whatever brand engine degreaser at any auto parts store.
That's what it's made for. To clean dirty, oily, greasy, grimy engines.
Spray it on, let it sit for 10 min, then hose it off.
It works great and does what it's supposed to.What is the best way to clean oil stains in between the fins of a motorcycle engine?
If you really want to get excellent results without busting your marbles, try to get some Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), it works like a dream, just make sure you do not get any plastics in contact with it.
A motorcycle is not pots or pans. Do not use household cleaners on it! Use products designed for your motorcycle go to a local dealer and check out the products they carry. To get between the fins use a spoked wheel brush.
DO NOT USE EASY-OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Caustic cleaners will eat your aluminum.
It works great on iron blocks, though
Gunk degreaser is made for it.
The thinner will do it too, but you may not want that on the clearcoat on the cases.
Spray can citrus-based degreasers work ok.
I've got a few small stiff bristle nylon bottle brushes I'm gonna try out.
.
Another trick to add to the pile of good advice here: Lacquer Thinner.
Not regular ';paint thinner'; or ';mineral spirits'; -- they won't work.
Lacquer thinner will do the job. Apply with a brush you won't use again, and don't get any on the paint or plastic. Don't splatter any on your car, either!
Try WD-40 and wash it off with soap %26amp; water....
Also, if you are really serious on getting the oil stains
off the fins.
Get some long extended q-tips and remove the oil stains
by hand.
Also, check you local auto parts store like
Pep Boys or Auto Zone....They probably have
a product that you can use.
use degreaser and cotton buds need lot of time then powerwash off
w-d40 then wash with soap and water
use the diesel or thiner and wiper with a clean paper tower until it dry before you start the engine
the easiest......easy-off oven cleaner
and rinse w water......do your whole motor if you want.....
Where do you get 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil?
I just bought a Cagllari Daytona from minipocketrockets.com and im wondering how am i supposed to fill the oil tank. I bought the mixer and now i need to know where to get the oil and gas. Can i just get some regular gas from Shell and then put some oil in it? Thanks.Where do you get 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil?
local motorbike shop they will have itWhere do you get 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil?
the best oil to get is spectro. it the best 2 stroke oil almost every racers use this oil (unless there sponsored by an oil company). don't go cheap or gas station brand look for something that is name brand. any recreation place will have it.if not then try klotz there good too. read your manual or call there support line
Dont buy the cheap stuff, go to your local bike shop and get some yama lube probably the best 2 stroke oil on the market......... Is the bike oil injected or do you have to mix it?
If it has an oil tank under the seat its oil injected and you wont need to mix gas.......
You need to mix the 2 stroke oil in exactly the right ratio, whatever the engine calls for it may be 16:1 to 50:1, too much oil will foul the plugs, too little you overheat and seize the engine.
2 stroke oil is found at most gas stations, even Wal Mart sells it.
local motorbike shop they will have itWhere do you get 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil?
the best oil to get is spectro. it the best 2 stroke oil almost every racers use this oil (unless there sponsored by an oil company). don't go cheap or gas station brand look for something that is name brand. any recreation place will have it.if not then try klotz there good too. read your manual or call there support line
Dont buy the cheap stuff, go to your local bike shop and get some yama lube probably the best 2 stroke oil on the market......... Is the bike oil injected or do you have to mix it?
If it has an oil tank under the seat its oil injected and you wont need to mix gas.......
You need to mix the 2 stroke oil in exactly the right ratio, whatever the engine calls for it may be 16:1 to 50:1, too much oil will foul the plugs, too little you overheat and seize the engine.
2 stroke oil is found at most gas stations, even Wal Mart sells it.
Does the 2006 Honda Rebel Motorcycle have an oil filter?
I can not find the oil filter on my Rebel. Does it even have one? It's not in the manual.Does the 2006 Honda Rebel Motorcycle have an oil filter?
Your Rebel doesn't have an oil filter. It has a fine mesh screen to filter large metal particles before entering the oil pump. To clean the screen, the R crankcase cover has to be removed. Paul S gave an incorrect answer. The Rebel doesn't have the oil screen above the drain bolt. Yamaha quads do.Does the 2006 Honda Rebel Motorcycle have an oil filter?
no
No. It has what's called an oil Screen. This is like a strainer for the oil and should only be replaced by qualified honda Technicians.
Your Rebel doesn't have an oil filter. It has a fine mesh screen to filter large metal particles before entering the oil pump. To clean the screen, the R crankcase cover has to be removed. Paul S gave an incorrect answer. The Rebel doesn't have the oil screen above the drain bolt. Yamaha quads do.Does the 2006 Honda Rebel Motorcycle have an oil filter?
no
No. It has what's called an oil Screen. This is like a strainer for the oil and should only be replaced by qualified honda Technicians.
Motorcycle Oil?
Good afternoon,
What is a good oil brand for my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic?
The first and last oil change was done at the dealer and I ended up paying a little over $100.00 for full synthetic, labor and filter. This time I want to do it myself just for the fun.
What type of oil would you recommend other than the Kawasaki one???
Can I use Mobil One 10/40 full synthetic but for cars on a motorcycle? I really don't know if there is any diff between the car and motorcycle oil (I know there is a diff on the price).
Any websites were I can find the filter? Maybe the oil too.
Thanks for your advise!Motorcycle Oil?
there is a difference in the oil additive packages. one thing that none of the answers have yet addressed is the ';wet clutch'; that most/many motorcycles have this being the multiple disc package that runs in the engine oil bath. that and also the fact that the engine oil also lubricates the transmission calls for additive packages taylored to that use. if you have a ';dry clutch'; motorcycle (BMW, Ducati etc.) the engine will do fine on an auto oil.Motorcycle Oil?
You can certainly open a can of worms asking a question like that in ANY forum. Actually Mobil One makes a motorcycle oil, I believe its labeled V-Twin 20-50, but, you should check your manual for the specified viscosity and use that.
Most auto oil 10 W 40 or heavier will work for you. Many Gold Wingers swear by Castrol
I use full sythetic auto oil, Mobil 1 (gold cap) and Rotella in my Hondas
If you prefer ';motorcycle oil'; check out Motul brand.
I've also been using K%26amp;N oil filters on my Hondas. They're made with a 17 mm nut on the end .
More important than the brand of oil is scheduled oil change.
I generally don't do Japanese, but one thing you don't want to mess with is your oil. I'm sure you don't read American Iron Magazine, but just a bout 6 - 8 months ago they ran an article on oil that said the Mobil 1 in 20-50 was just fine, and better than some made for bike oils.
If I'm not mistaken, your Kaw is air-cooled. an air cooled bike needs an oil that is resistant to thermal breakdown becasue of the extra heat generated by an air cooled engine. Car engine oil does not generally have this problem.
I live in Florida and ride in stop and go traffic. I have an FXDWG with 44,000 trouble free miles on it and I use Amsoil synthetic 20-50. Thing runs like a top, and I don't have an oil cooler or oversized filter. It gets a bit warm, but not to the point where it make for any trouble.
I also change my oil and filter every 2,000 miles, give or take a few miles, along with my tranny juice. And being an old fart, I don't dog my bike. There is a big difference between ';good'; motorcycle oil and car oils. Spend the extra pennies on oil now, or the big bucks on engine repair later! And about every third change, bring it back to the dealer for a full going over. They will spot stuff you miss.
Engineers recommend certain types of oil viscosity with the particular engine's specs in mind (valve Clearance, etc) These clearances are set to the oil's surface tension, if you do not ad hear to the specified oil viscosity the only way to compensate for this would be to change the entire engine's specifications. This is of course not recommended so stick with the regular oil viscosity.
Yes there's a difference between motorcycle and car engine oil. Understand that one of the main purposes of oil is to transfer heat. (One example) Cars will have an engine coolant that helps removes heat from the engine to be cooled by air. Many motorcycles are air cooled directly meaning their engine oil must stand up to a heavier heat range.
Mobil 1 makes a synthetic motorcycle oil. I would recommend not using car oil except in emergencies unless you like changing oil frequently. If you have to use car oil to get back home, change it out with motorcycle oil when you can. Please read the oil study report:
http://www.xlrator.com/personal/oil/defa…
Excerpt from the report:
Regular vs. Motorcycle Oils
It’s time for the big question: “Are automotive oils and motorcycle oils different?” The easy answer is “yes they are.” In tests that I’ve had performed, and in tests that I have seen reported, there is a difference in some of the oils. The problem here is that a difference in formula does not necessarily imply a difference in requirements. For instance, say Bob’s Auto Oil has 0.05% ZDDP, and Bob’s Motorcycle Oil has 0.02% ZDDP. Sure enough, in this case the motorcycle oil is not like the automotive oil. The problem here is Steve’s Motorcycle Oil may have 0.07% ZDDP. Just because Bob has a “special” motorcycle oil does not necessarily make it better.
Tests done by Motorcycle Consumer News indicated that there were substantial similarities in automotive and motorcycle offerings in many brands (Fig. 1, 2, 3). You could tell the difference, but the basic trends were the same with regards to additives. Most recently, I have people writing me telling me that their new motorcycle oil is reformulated and nothing like their car oil. Well that’s nice and all, I’m sure it’s different from their car oil, but what if it’s just like someone else’s car oil now? Until they tell me exactly what the changes are I cannot, make a decision as an informed consumer.
One area that might bear some fruit is oil’s ability to resist heat aging. All petroleum products have volatile compounds that will gas off, as well as others that will oxidize. It seems reasonable to believe that in some parts of a bike’s engine, the oil will experience higher temperatures than it would in a water cooled automotive motor. Aside from differences between synthetics and petroleum oils, there are no notable difference between motorcycle and automotive oils. One can either infer from this that heat aging is not a concern, or that there’s nothing that can be done within the blends’ parameters to significantly change this characteristic.
You can research this forever on line. My personal research seconds the advice that moto-specific is mostly hype. The analysis results are available, make your own decision. The many reports that I viewed, dealt with the clutch and transmission requirements. Mobil 1 auto oil held its viscosity longer than the moto oils. Shell Rotella T is a diesel/ universal oil that fares better than most. The fellow who said that the change intervals outweigh product choice, shares the philosophy of many who are knowledgeable. If you are really worried, choose the bike oil. It is a good choice. Educate yourself. You might as well tackle filters while you're at it. Oh boy, here we go.............
Use a motorcycle-specific, full synthetic oil. There are several good brands out there, some are availble at auto parts stores:
Mobil 1 MX4
Castrol Synthetic
Golden Spectro
Motul
All good oils, without any friction modifiers that will effect the performance of your wet transmission clutch. Usually between 4-7 bucks per quart.
go to any local motorcycle dealer and ask them they will hook you up with the best oil for bikes or read the owners manual go to auto zone and get an oil that is the same specs.your owners book should have all that info in it i would stick with kawasaski parts and oil.
No No No - don't use car oil in your bike. Car oil doesn't have the same additives and will break down too fast.
Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil is great, just a bit expensive. Any motorcycle oil is ok to use but some people don't like ';ester'; based oils which are used mostly abroad .
There will forever be differing opinions on what oil to use. Go on the internet under motorcycle oils and read all you can, talk to others that have had bikes a long time, then make up your own mind.
10/20 is good for cold weather, 20/50 for hot
Got to XS11.com and read the articles on oil.
My Virago 700: I just dump in some Castrol, usually 10w30 or 10w40. My motorcycle is way old now, so I put mostly 10w40 and mix in a little 20w50. *shrug* Whatever you do, do NOT overfill. Keep the oil level between the marks.
About 80,000 miles on this one (not sure, 'cause it's a ratbike and the speedometer cable was busted for more than a year). It has a busted stator now but otherwise runs okay.
I think auto and motorcycle oils are the same. Not even Mobil 1 can clearly explain the difference between the two! Check out the mobil 1 link below to see it for your self. They may say its different but then there is no facts to show.
This is what I found on the mobil one web from the FAQ:
So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?
First, let's be clear about Mobil 1's overall benefits compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:
Superior long-term engine protection.
Superior high-temperature stability.
Excellent low-temperature starting.
Outstanding engine performance.
Low volatility/low oil consumption
It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:
Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers.
Guys, I've used 20W50 and 10W40 car oil in my bikes and they ran fine. I run 'em hard too.
I believe all that 'special' motorcycle oil is a bunch of hype to make you spend more.
Sheez, $100 for a motorcycle oil change is just plain robbery.
3 or 4 quarts of oil and a filter should run about $10-$15.
It is always better to do you own oil changes. It guarantees you that some minimum wage bozo whose dad gave him a job at the motorcycle shop is not messing with your bike. It also gets you under the bike for a forced undercarriage inspection.
Seriously, how many of you out there REALLY do a full bike inspection before riding? Yeah, right. I didn't think so.
What is a good oil brand for my 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic?
The first and last oil change was done at the dealer and I ended up paying a little over $100.00 for full synthetic, labor and filter. This time I want to do it myself just for the fun.
What type of oil would you recommend other than the Kawasaki one???
Can I use Mobil One 10/40 full synthetic but for cars on a motorcycle? I really don't know if there is any diff between the car and motorcycle oil (I know there is a diff on the price).
Any websites were I can find the filter? Maybe the oil too.
Thanks for your advise!Motorcycle Oil?
there is a difference in the oil additive packages. one thing that none of the answers have yet addressed is the ';wet clutch'; that most/many motorcycles have this being the multiple disc package that runs in the engine oil bath. that and also the fact that the engine oil also lubricates the transmission calls for additive packages taylored to that use. if you have a ';dry clutch'; motorcycle (BMW, Ducati etc.) the engine will do fine on an auto oil.Motorcycle Oil?
You can certainly open a can of worms asking a question like that in ANY forum. Actually Mobil One makes a motorcycle oil, I believe its labeled V-Twin 20-50, but, you should check your manual for the specified viscosity and use that.
Most auto oil 10 W 40 or heavier will work for you. Many Gold Wingers swear by Castrol
I use full sythetic auto oil, Mobil 1 (gold cap) and Rotella in my Hondas
If you prefer ';motorcycle oil'; check out Motul brand.
I've also been using K%26amp;N oil filters on my Hondas. They're made with a 17 mm nut on the end .
More important than the brand of oil is scheduled oil change.
I generally don't do Japanese, but one thing you don't want to mess with is your oil. I'm sure you don't read American Iron Magazine, but just a bout 6 - 8 months ago they ran an article on oil that said the Mobil 1 in 20-50 was just fine, and better than some made for bike oils.
If I'm not mistaken, your Kaw is air-cooled. an air cooled bike needs an oil that is resistant to thermal breakdown becasue of the extra heat generated by an air cooled engine. Car engine oil does not generally have this problem.
I live in Florida and ride in stop and go traffic. I have an FXDWG with 44,000 trouble free miles on it and I use Amsoil synthetic 20-50. Thing runs like a top, and I don't have an oil cooler or oversized filter. It gets a bit warm, but not to the point where it make for any trouble.
I also change my oil and filter every 2,000 miles, give or take a few miles, along with my tranny juice. And being an old fart, I don't dog my bike. There is a big difference between ';good'; motorcycle oil and car oils. Spend the extra pennies on oil now, or the big bucks on engine repair later! And about every third change, bring it back to the dealer for a full going over. They will spot stuff you miss.
Engineers recommend certain types of oil viscosity with the particular engine's specs in mind (valve Clearance, etc) These clearances are set to the oil's surface tension, if you do not ad hear to the specified oil viscosity the only way to compensate for this would be to change the entire engine's specifications. This is of course not recommended so stick with the regular oil viscosity.
Yes there's a difference between motorcycle and car engine oil. Understand that one of the main purposes of oil is to transfer heat. (One example) Cars will have an engine coolant that helps removes heat from the engine to be cooled by air. Many motorcycles are air cooled directly meaning their engine oil must stand up to a heavier heat range.
Mobil 1 makes a synthetic motorcycle oil. I would recommend not using car oil except in emergencies unless you like changing oil frequently. If you have to use car oil to get back home, change it out with motorcycle oil when you can. Please read the oil study report:
http://www.xlrator.com/personal/oil/defa…
Excerpt from the report:
Regular vs. Motorcycle Oils
It’s time for the big question: “Are automotive oils and motorcycle oils different?” The easy answer is “yes they are.” In tests that I’ve had performed, and in tests that I have seen reported, there is a difference in some of the oils. The problem here is that a difference in formula does not necessarily imply a difference in requirements. For instance, say Bob’s Auto Oil has 0.05% ZDDP, and Bob’s Motorcycle Oil has 0.02% ZDDP. Sure enough, in this case the motorcycle oil is not like the automotive oil. The problem here is Steve’s Motorcycle Oil may have 0.07% ZDDP. Just because Bob has a “special” motorcycle oil does not necessarily make it better.
Tests done by Motorcycle Consumer News indicated that there were substantial similarities in automotive and motorcycle offerings in many brands (Fig. 1, 2, 3). You could tell the difference, but the basic trends were the same with regards to additives. Most recently, I have people writing me telling me that their new motorcycle oil is reformulated and nothing like their car oil. Well that’s nice and all, I’m sure it’s different from their car oil, but what if it’s just like someone else’s car oil now? Until they tell me exactly what the changes are I cannot, make a decision as an informed consumer.
One area that might bear some fruit is oil’s ability to resist heat aging. All petroleum products have volatile compounds that will gas off, as well as others that will oxidize. It seems reasonable to believe that in some parts of a bike’s engine, the oil will experience higher temperatures than it would in a water cooled automotive motor. Aside from differences between synthetics and petroleum oils, there are no notable difference between motorcycle and automotive oils. One can either infer from this that heat aging is not a concern, or that there’s nothing that can be done within the blends’ parameters to significantly change this characteristic.
You can research this forever on line. My personal research seconds the advice that moto-specific is mostly hype. The analysis results are available, make your own decision. The many reports that I viewed, dealt with the clutch and transmission requirements. Mobil 1 auto oil held its viscosity longer than the moto oils. Shell Rotella T is a diesel/ universal oil that fares better than most. The fellow who said that the change intervals outweigh product choice, shares the philosophy of many who are knowledgeable. If you are really worried, choose the bike oil. It is a good choice. Educate yourself. You might as well tackle filters while you're at it. Oh boy, here we go.............
Use a motorcycle-specific, full synthetic oil. There are several good brands out there, some are availble at auto parts stores:
Mobil 1 MX4
Castrol Synthetic
Golden Spectro
Motul
All good oils, without any friction modifiers that will effect the performance of your wet transmission clutch. Usually between 4-7 bucks per quart.
go to any local motorcycle dealer and ask them they will hook you up with the best oil for bikes or read the owners manual go to auto zone and get an oil that is the same specs.your owners book should have all that info in it i would stick with kawasaski parts and oil.
No No No - don't use car oil in your bike. Car oil doesn't have the same additives and will break down too fast.
Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil is great, just a bit expensive. Any motorcycle oil is ok to use but some people don't like ';ester'; based oils which are used mostly abroad .
There will forever be differing opinions on what oil to use. Go on the internet under motorcycle oils and read all you can, talk to others that have had bikes a long time, then make up your own mind.
10/20 is good for cold weather, 20/50 for hot
Got to XS11.com and read the articles on oil.
My Virago 700: I just dump in some Castrol, usually 10w30 or 10w40. My motorcycle is way old now, so I put mostly 10w40 and mix in a little 20w50. *shrug* Whatever you do, do NOT overfill. Keep the oil level between the marks.
About 80,000 miles on this one (not sure, 'cause it's a ratbike and the speedometer cable was busted for more than a year). It has a busted stator now but otherwise runs okay.
I think auto and motorcycle oils are the same. Not even Mobil 1 can clearly explain the difference between the two! Check out the mobil 1 link below to see it for your self. They may say its different but then there is no facts to show.
This is what I found on the mobil one web from the FAQ:
So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?
First, let's be clear about Mobil 1's overall benefits compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:
Superior long-term engine protection.
Superior high-temperature stability.
Excellent low-temperature starting.
Outstanding engine performance.
Low volatility/low oil consumption
It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:
Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers.
Guys, I've used 20W50 and 10W40 car oil in my bikes and they ran fine. I run 'em hard too.
I believe all that 'special' motorcycle oil is a bunch of hype to make you spend more.
Sheez, $100 for a motorcycle oil change is just plain robbery.
3 or 4 quarts of oil and a filter should run about $10-$15.
It is always better to do you own oil changes. It guarantees you that some minimum wage bozo whose dad gave him a job at the motorcycle shop is not messing with your bike. It also gets you under the bike for a forced undercarriage inspection.
Seriously, how many of you out there REALLY do a full bike inspection before riding? Yeah, right. I didn't think so.
Motorcycle Oil?
I am changing the oil on my motorcycle soon and the manual recommends to use 10w30 or 20w40 oil, and I could not find any of that kind. The guy I talked to said that 20w40 and 20w50 were pretty much the same thing and that 20w50 would work just fine.
Does that sound right? Will it do any damage if I use 20w50 oil?
Thanks and any help is appreciated!!Motorcycle Oil?
The generally available motorcycle engine oil weights are 10w40 and 20w50. Use 10w40 in place of 10w30 and 20w50 in place of 20w40. The oil needs to meet JASO MA and/or API SJ. Use the lightest oil acceptable for your area's climate.
Do not use 10w-30 oil formulated for cars and light trucks. Cars and trucks with a manual transmission use a dry clutch. Oil that has API SL or SM contains friction reducing additives that will cause a motorcycle's wet clutch not to work right and could ruin it.
I own a Yamaha which came with an owners manual calling for the use of 10w30 motor oil. But, Yamaha only markets Yamalube in 10w40, 20w50 and a synthetic of 15w50. They say that these oils are specially formulated to Yamaha specifications!Motorcycle Oil?
I will agree with ';irepocars';; And add that if you are in a warm climate the heavier oil will probably not be a problem.
But, as soon as practicable, I would change to what the manual recommends.
You wont do any damage. However, It always best to follow the manufacturers recommendations.
20W-50 is a heavy (thick) oil. use 5w20 or 10W40
the lower the number, the easier to start in cold
if you cant get 20W40..20W50 is not going to make a huge difference.. it's not going to damage/destroy your engine..
I would use 20W50..and I would'nt loose any sleep over it.:)
Don't use 20w50.
It's weird that you can't find 10w30, it's common at every store and gas station that carries motor oil around here (Los Angeles). If you really can't find it, then use 10w40.
if you ride in a hot climate use 20-50 . do not use any car oil's in any of the new school liquid cooled engines. most off road %26amp; motorcycle shops will have the oil you need.
10w40 if its a crotch rocket
Does that sound right? Will it do any damage if I use 20w50 oil?
Thanks and any help is appreciated!!Motorcycle Oil?
The generally available motorcycle engine oil weights are 10w40 and 20w50. Use 10w40 in place of 10w30 and 20w50 in place of 20w40. The oil needs to meet JASO MA and/or API SJ. Use the lightest oil acceptable for your area's climate.
Do not use 10w-30 oil formulated for cars and light trucks. Cars and trucks with a manual transmission use a dry clutch. Oil that has API SL or SM contains friction reducing additives that will cause a motorcycle's wet clutch not to work right and could ruin it.
I own a Yamaha which came with an owners manual calling for the use of 10w30 motor oil. But, Yamaha only markets Yamalube in 10w40, 20w50 and a synthetic of 15w50. They say that these oils are specially formulated to Yamaha specifications!Motorcycle Oil?
I will agree with ';irepocars';; And add that if you are in a warm climate the heavier oil will probably not be a problem.
But, as soon as practicable, I would change to what the manual recommends.
You wont do any damage. However, It always best to follow the manufacturers recommendations.
20W-50 is a heavy (thick) oil. use 5w20 or 10W40
the lower the number, the easier to start in cold
if you cant get 20W40..20W50 is not going to make a huge difference.. it's not going to damage/destroy your engine..
I would use 20W50..and I would'nt loose any sleep over it.:)
Don't use 20w50.
It's weird that you can't find 10w30, it's common at every store and gas station that carries motor oil around here (Los Angeles). If you really can't find it, then use 10w40.
if you ride in a hot climate use 20-50 . do not use any car oil's in any of the new school liquid cooled engines. most off road %26amp; motorcycle shops will have the oil you need.
10w40 if its a crotch rocket
Motorcycle oil?
Different from car oil? how so? where to buy?Motorcycle oil?
Motorycycles run at higher RPMs and higher temperatures than your average car. They require a different oil, so refer to Kawasaki's owner's manual. For example, my car only takes 5W-30 and 10W-30 oil. My motorcycle on the other hand takes 10W-40. This is merely a different viscosity. Experts recommend using synthetic oil instead of the regular mineral kind. You can buy motorcycle oil at any autoparts store. If you go to a motorcycle dealership you'll get charged twice as much. So just visit your local autoparts store (e.g. Autozone, Murray's, NAPA, etc.) and ask for 10W-40 oil. Some oils claim ';for motorcycles'; on their label but I personally think all 10W-40 oils are the same (whether they say its for motorcycles or not). Don't forget to change your oil filter at every 3rd oil change. Oil changes are usually recommended every 2 months or 5,000 miles (whichever comes first). I change my oil every month because since the clutch system is also bathed in the motor oil, new oil will give you smooth gear shifts, better mileage and a smooth ride.Motorcycle oil?
2 stroke or 4 stroke???????
You'll need a thicker grade of oil than what modern cars take, but other than that, people who have tested motorcycle oils and car oils side by side haven't found real differences. The only time I've heard of automotive oils causing problems is when you run a thin (low numbers) oil or oil marked with the Energy Conserving grade. Motorcycle clutches are in oil, and some of the friction fighting car oils can make the clutch not work correctly.
An EX250 is a 4 stroke
You can use any quality brand name 4 stroke motor oil.
car and bike oils have different additives,so what works in your car may be bad for your bike.
yeah motorcycle oil is different it has additives like zddp that they are no longer allowed to put in auto oil, in fact the oil company's are recommending motorcycle rated oil or diesel rated oil in older cars to prevent premature engine failure. there has been some discussion on this forum with some of the answers in the last 2 days giving some very informative links. look over this section %26amp; find them instead of asking oppinions
Check your manual. It will tell you what typs of oil your specific bike needs. If you don't have one check with your dealer. They can recomend an oil.
Your bike is a 4 stroke. The motor oil that is recommended for that bike is 10-W40, but their are some changes depending on the temperature where you live. I recommend that you look at the owners manual. The manual says to add the oil when it becomes low, in between the lines on the side of the bike. Don't forget to change the oil when the manual says to. Good lucksoap opera
Motorycycles run at higher RPMs and higher temperatures than your average car. They require a different oil, so refer to Kawasaki's owner's manual. For example, my car only takes 5W-30 and 10W-30 oil. My motorcycle on the other hand takes 10W-40. This is merely a different viscosity. Experts recommend using synthetic oil instead of the regular mineral kind. You can buy motorcycle oil at any autoparts store. If you go to a motorcycle dealership you'll get charged twice as much. So just visit your local autoparts store (e.g. Autozone, Murray's, NAPA, etc.) and ask for 10W-40 oil. Some oils claim ';for motorcycles'; on their label but I personally think all 10W-40 oils are the same (whether they say its for motorcycles or not). Don't forget to change your oil filter at every 3rd oil change. Oil changes are usually recommended every 2 months or 5,000 miles (whichever comes first). I change my oil every month because since the clutch system is also bathed in the motor oil, new oil will give you smooth gear shifts, better mileage and a smooth ride.Motorcycle oil?
2 stroke or 4 stroke???????
You'll need a thicker grade of oil than what modern cars take, but other than that, people who have tested motorcycle oils and car oils side by side haven't found real differences. The only time I've heard of automotive oils causing problems is when you run a thin (low numbers) oil or oil marked with the Energy Conserving grade. Motorcycle clutches are in oil, and some of the friction fighting car oils can make the clutch not work correctly.
An EX250 is a 4 stroke
You can use any quality brand name 4 stroke motor oil.
car and bike oils have different additives,so what works in your car may be bad for your bike.
yeah motorcycle oil is different it has additives like zddp that they are no longer allowed to put in auto oil, in fact the oil company's are recommending motorcycle rated oil or diesel rated oil in older cars to prevent premature engine failure. there has been some discussion on this forum with some of the answers in the last 2 days giving some very informative links. look over this section %26amp; find them instead of asking oppinions
Check your manual. It will tell you what typs of oil your specific bike needs. If you don't have one check with your dealer. They can recomend an oil.
Your bike is a 4 stroke. The motor oil that is recommended for that bike is 10-W40, but their are some changes depending on the temperature where you live. I recommend that you look at the owners manual. The manual says to add the oil when it becomes low, in between the lines on the side of the bike. Don't forget to change the oil when the manual says to. Good luck
How much oil do i need to change the oil on my 2005 kawasaki 500 motorcycle?
i just bought the bike and i dont have the manual. and what type of oil do i need?How much oil do i need to change the oil on my 2005 kawasaki 500 motorcycle?
Buying 4 quarts is a good idea, it will probably not use all of it, but then you'll have some for top off.
As for what kind you definitely want motorcycle specific oil to prevent wet clutch slippage due to friction modifiers used in automotive oils. Also a synthetic will stand up to heat better and shearing forces generated by your transmission gears. Most likely a 10W-40 viscosity for your Kawasaki.
Here is a link to 26 different motorcycle oils compared including Amsoil, Mobil-1, Motul, Castrol, etc: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
If you decide on Amsoil, here's my Amsoil website: http://www.number1synthetic.com
Good luck! Congrats on your first bike and learning to work on it yourself.How much oil do i need to change the oil on my 2005 kawasaki 500 motorcycle?
I put 10 40W semi Oil on
Drain the whole lot out by the Sump bolt - alot will come out.
Have MIN 4 Liters of oil.......... Put in 2 Liters (on bottle)
Get someone to sit on it - or if you have a abba stand make sure its centered - turn the bike on and let run for 3 mins - turn off and cool for 3 mins - you will see the oil return to the glass window.
If its not between to Min/Max lines add a bit more - but add slowly and stop, again if need be.
Again do the 3 min stop/start and see where the oil sits.
The 3 min gap gets all the oil to where its needed - then to drain again.
This will give you a good estimate of oil to use.
I changed my ZX6R yesterday and 3 Ltrs were used.
i use nothing but mobil 1 mx4t.............look up the manual on line...or google oil capacity for..';your bike';
Buying 4 quarts is a good idea, it will probably not use all of it, but then you'll have some for top off.
As for what kind you definitely want motorcycle specific oil to prevent wet clutch slippage due to friction modifiers used in automotive oils. Also a synthetic will stand up to heat better and shearing forces generated by your transmission gears. Most likely a 10W-40 viscosity for your Kawasaki.
Here is a link to 26 different motorcycle oils compared including Amsoil, Mobil-1, Motul, Castrol, etc: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
If you decide on Amsoil, here's my Amsoil website: http://www.number1synthetic.com
Good luck! Congrats on your first bike and learning to work on it yourself.How much oil do i need to change the oil on my 2005 kawasaki 500 motorcycle?
I put 10 40W semi Oil on
Drain the whole lot out by the Sump bolt - alot will come out.
Have MIN 4 Liters of oil.......... Put in 2 Liters (on bottle)
Get someone to sit on it - or if you have a abba stand make sure its centered - turn the bike on and let run for 3 mins - turn off and cool for 3 mins - you will see the oil return to the glass window.
If its not between to Min/Max lines add a bit more - but add slowly and stop, again if need be.
Again do the 3 min stop/start and see where the oil sits.
The 3 min gap gets all the oil to where its needed - then to drain again.
This will give you a good estimate of oil to use.
I changed my ZX6R yesterday and 3 Ltrs were used.
i use nothing but mobil 1 mx4t.............look up the manual on line...or google oil capacity for..';your bike';
What type of motor oil would be the best overall for a motorcycle?
i have seen all the ads and i want the top quality.What type of motor oil would be the best overall for a motorcycle?
the best bet is to ask the manufacturer or dealershipWhat type of motor oil would be the best overall for a motorcycle?
amsoil or mobil1
A good synthetic oil is probably the best you can get with current technology. I've been using Mobil 1 in my bikes for several years now, and have never had an oil related failure.
It would be stupid to answer this question without knowing what bike you are riding. Always use oil designed for motorcycles as opposed to cars. They have polymers that help them from breaking down as quickly since most motorcycles share the same oil in the clutch and transmission.
best bike oils are mobil 1 lucas motorcycle oil amsoil best three out there
motul castrol r4,silkolene,repsol, stick with a cycle related brand as they do the most testing in bikes alothough you will hear there is no diff. I have yet to see a motorcycle race with pennsoil or kendall as a sponser
IMHO:
Amsoil
www.amsoil.com
Don't get the manufacturer's oil. Its just some cheap @ss oil with a good name.
the best bet is to ask the manufacturer or dealershipWhat type of motor oil would be the best overall for a motorcycle?
amsoil or mobil1
A good synthetic oil is probably the best you can get with current technology. I've been using Mobil 1 in my bikes for several years now, and have never had an oil related failure.
It would be stupid to answer this question without knowing what bike you are riding. Always use oil designed for motorcycles as opposed to cars. They have polymers that help them from breaking down as quickly since most motorcycles share the same oil in the clutch and transmission.
best bike oils are mobil 1 lucas motorcycle oil amsoil best three out there
motul castrol r4,silkolene,repsol, stick with a cycle related brand as they do the most testing in bikes alothough you will hear there is no diff. I have yet to see a motorcycle race with pennsoil or kendall as a sponser
IMHO:
Amsoil
www.amsoil.com
Don't get the manufacturer's oil. Its just some cheap @ss oil with a good name.
My YZF 600r oil light is on and my motorcycle lacks speed?
It's a 97'. This is after an oil change. Did I put the wrong oil in and where do I go from here? Thanks for the replies.My YZF 600r oil light is on and my motorcycle lacks speed?
You put TWO GRADES of oil in at the same time? You mixed them? Was one a gear oil by any chance?
If so, DRAIN the oil. Go down to your local dealership and purchase some good quality motorcycle-specific oil. Get enough of the same oil to finish the job.
Also purchase a new oil filter.
Make sure the other oil is completely drained (follow procedures as shown in your owners manual - many times it requires draining from more than one location). Replace the filter, and re-fill to proper level with the correct oil.My YZF 600r oil light is on and my motorcycle lacks speed?
well it is like this u better go and drain the oil out and put 10-40 because the 10-50 is like glue to the engine it will slow the piston down where the oil is so thick but if u do not drain the oil out it willo blow the engine because when u drain the oil out of the engine it will be thick and black but if u love your bike u better drain the oil and out 10 -40 in it
could eb the wrong oil type, or the oil pump is clogged.
Check your oil level.
You put TWO GRADES of oil in at the same time? You mixed them? Was one a gear oil by any chance?
If so, DRAIN the oil. Go down to your local dealership and purchase some good quality motorcycle-specific oil. Get enough of the same oil to finish the job.
Also purchase a new oil filter.
Make sure the other oil is completely drained (follow procedures as shown in your owners manual - many times it requires draining from more than one location). Replace the filter, and re-fill to proper level with the correct oil.My YZF 600r oil light is on and my motorcycle lacks speed?
well it is like this u better go and drain the oil out and put 10-40 because the 10-50 is like glue to the engine it will slow the piston down where the oil is so thick but if u do not drain the oil out it willo blow the engine because when u drain the oil out of the engine it will be thick and black but if u love your bike u better drain the oil and out 10 -40 in it
could eb the wrong oil type, or the oil pump is clogged.
Check your oil level.
My motorcycle backfires and the sparkplugs get covered in oil, how can i resolve that w/ a permanent solution?
It backfires. It does not accelerate properly. It leaks black gunk out of my pipe. Help!My motorcycle backfires and the sparkplugs get covered in oil, how can i resolve that w/ a permanent solution?
It sounds like you either have some seals that are shot, sending engine oil into the piston chambers. They are fouling the engine causing poor exceleration.
It could be that or maybe you have too much oil in the crankcase.
Change the oil and replace it with whatever is in your motorcycle manual and in the proper quantity.
If it is still happening take to a shop to check engine seals.My motorcycle backfires and the sparkplugs get covered in oil, how can i resolve that w/ a permanent solution?
buy a new motorcycle.
Tom and Indian both offer sound advice, I would suggest that you allow a mechanic to look over your bike.
good Luck
If it is a two cycle engine, I would say your mixture or oil injector was bad.
If it is a four cycle engine like most, you either have a valve guide that is bad, or a piston ring that is broken. Need to get that engine apart quick because if it is a ring, it will destroy the engine past the point of being able to fix it in short order.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
This will identify your problem and offer solutions and hopefully not cost too much to correct.
Good riding.
Unless, of course, it's an old Brit bike.
In that case, it's normal and you just need to get really fast at changing plugs. ;%26lt;)
As with 80% of these
WHAT kind of bike
But sounds like you better get into that top end pretty soon
It may be time to invest in another bike. black gunk out of the pipe sounds costly.
change to a cooler plug , dont use the choke to warm up the bike re jet the bike ive had that same problen on my bike but when i changed to a cooler plug it stopped
It sounds like you either have some seals that are shot, sending engine oil into the piston chambers. They are fouling the engine causing poor exceleration.
It could be that or maybe you have too much oil in the crankcase.
Change the oil and replace it with whatever is in your motorcycle manual and in the proper quantity.
If it is still happening take to a shop to check engine seals.My motorcycle backfires and the sparkplugs get covered in oil, how can i resolve that w/ a permanent solution?
buy a new motorcycle.
Tom and Indian both offer sound advice, I would suggest that you allow a mechanic to look over your bike.
good Luck
If it is a two cycle engine, I would say your mixture or oil injector was bad.
If it is a four cycle engine like most, you either have a valve guide that is bad, or a piston ring that is broken. Need to get that engine apart quick because if it is a ring, it will destroy the engine past the point of being able to fix it in short order.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
This will identify your problem and offer solutions and hopefully not cost too much to correct.
Good riding.
Unless, of course, it's an old Brit bike.
In that case, it's normal and you just need to get really fast at changing plugs. ;%26lt;)
As with 80% of these
WHAT kind of bike
But sounds like you better get into that top end pretty soon
It may be time to invest in another bike. black gunk out of the pipe sounds costly.
change to a cooler plug , dont use the choke to warm up the bike re jet the bike ive had that same problen on my bike but when i changed to a cooler plug it stopped
What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
synthetic, dino, auto, MC, Diesel?
What brands are best?
What do you recomend?What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
That depends on your motorcycle.
I recommend a decent quality motorcycle rated oil.What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
That would depend upon what you are riding and how miles are on it, etc..... If you have over 15K miles, you might not want to switch to synthetic oils...they can cause problems with your clutch plates. And vice versa - if you are using synth, you dont want to go back to fossil oil.
I do what is easiest - I go to my local dealer and I buy Kawasaki oil. I figure if I have any issues, they will have to cover it under warranty because Im using their oil....
I use Castrol 10w40, or whatever I happen to have lying around. Seems to work okay. I don't take any special care of my motorcycle, and it's lasted about 83,000 miles. Next time it gives me any trouble, it's going on craigslist as a ';junker project bike.';
is it a inline 4 or a v twin. what do you prefer? i use full
syn in both my bikes. amsoil 10-40 for the gsxr and 20-50
for the harley. no problems.
Read the manual to get a factory recomendation. I use synthetic
largely depends on where you live... i lvie in ohio and since it doesnt get overly hot for long periods of time, i use 10w40 weight. I personally love Mobil1 racing 4T (equivalent to 10/40) if you live somewhere where it may get to be over 100 for long perids of time then i would recommend 20w50soap opera
What brands are best?
What do you recomend?What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
That depends on your motorcycle.
I recommend a decent quality motorcycle rated oil.What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
That would depend upon what you are riding and how miles are on it, etc..... If you have over 15K miles, you might not want to switch to synthetic oils...they can cause problems with your clutch plates. And vice versa - if you are using synth, you dont want to go back to fossil oil.
I do what is easiest - I go to my local dealer and I buy Kawasaki oil. I figure if I have any issues, they will have to cover it under warranty because Im using their oil....
I use Castrol 10w40, or whatever I happen to have lying around. Seems to work okay. I don't take any special care of my motorcycle, and it's lasted about 83,000 miles. Next time it gives me any trouble, it's going on craigslist as a ';junker project bike.';
is it a inline 4 or a v twin. what do you prefer? i use full
syn in both my bikes. amsoil 10-40 for the gsxr and 20-50
for the harley. no problems.
Read the manual to get a factory recomendation. I use synthetic
largely depends on where you live... i lvie in ohio and since it doesnt get overly hot for long periods of time, i use 10w40 weight. I personally love Mobil1 racing 4T (equivalent to 10/40) if you live somewhere where it may get to be over 100 for long perids of time then i would recommend 20w50
Motorcycle oil?
Is there really a difference between car oil and motorcycle oil? I looked at the back of a quart and it doesn't really say anything useful. Some websites have said that there's no difference, other than the extra $3 a quart. My owners manual says that I need oil that's aluminum friendly and doesn't have detergents. Aren't most motor oils aluminum friendly? I have a 2002 Honda Shadow VLX, if that helps.Motorcycle oil?
personally I use castrol actevo I have never had any clutch or tranny problems with my my ten bikes.
Here is an article written on the subject you decide
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.htmlMotorcycle oil?
In over 30 years of riding bikes, I have not used 1 bottle of cycle oil, never had any problems related to lubrication and last 15 years I have been using fully synthetic (namely Mobil 1) for all my cars and bikes. Never had any slipping clutch problems either.
the best advice i can give you is castrol gtx 10w40
i run it in all my bikes and never have any problems. what you want to avoid is the friction reducing additive, they will cause your cluch to slip.
In some cases, when the engine oil lubricates more than one thing, it is different.
Yeah most automotive oil's are Aluminum friendly. a lot of cars have aluminum heads as well as blocks. so the oil has been changed to help condition them. the motorcycle oil you are buying is most likely formulated for the motors though. they do need different detergents in them (All oils have detergents. It's all part of the viscosity. With out it you would not have the viscosity, that's how they get it there)
The base stocks in specific brands and types of motor oils are very similar. It's the additive package (including the aforementioned detergents) that separate them.
The argument as which is better, is one better than the other, etc has been an on going thing, and will continue to rage for the indefinite future. Primarily because of the relative newness of motorcycle specific oils to the marketplace and the lack of any real long term definitive test results.
In a nutshell, it has pretty well been established that all oils, offer short term protection and lubrication in a motorcycle engine. Tests that I've studied and read with regards to the various types of oils, how and when they break down under use in a motorcycle engine have been inconclusive in my mind. Could go either way, mainly depending upon the type of base stock.
The main thing that most all the 'experts' agree on is the friction modifier issue. If an oil is marketed and marked as an ';Energy Conservation'; oil it most definitely does contain friction modifiers. These additives give the oil a tendency to reduce friction between surfaces. Which is a good thing when we're talking about say, a piston and cylinder wall, but that turns into bad thing when discussing clutch plates.
The only energy conserving oils on the market are indeed automotive specific. Motorcycle specific oils and desiel engine oils do not.
Many riders, in an effort to be thrifty, not spend any more money than absolutely neccessary on thier machines, or to not pay for motorcycle shops outragous profit margins (rotflmao) use automotive oil, and most, especially those that trade bikes on a more or less normal schedule, get away with it. Many more use desiel oils due to the lack of friction modifiers. Heck, I know of several riders that use ATF in thier motorcycles gearboxes, have for years and swear they will never change.
The thing I have found through specific testing on my bikes is that a pure synthetic motorcycle specific oil remains consistant in make up and nature well past the scheduled oil changes. None of the oil samples I have sent in for testing show any break down what so ever at the recommended interval, or up to half again the suggested mileage. I've not gone twice the recommened mileage to do that test, and honestly probably won't! *lol* But up to a little over 6,000 miles I have never, not once, had a test result come back showing any negative results. So the extra $3, while not a huge concern to me in the first place, is even less so because I can, and do, go longer between oil changes with it.
Would the same thing happen with an automotive or desiel oil? Maybe. Even probably. But my personal nature is to use products designed for the particular application. I don't use dish soap in the washing machine or kerosene in the parts washer either.
Also, for what it's worth, let me clear the air right now as to the costs of motorcycle specific oils. I'm tired of reading and hearing from folks that don't really know wat they are talking about in relation to the margins on these oils. Truth and fact is that there is no more margin on oil than on anything else you'll get from a shop or dealership. Sorry guys, it's a fact. MSRP pricing is set by every frigging body but the retailer and the ONLY way for us to make any additional profit per item is to buy cheaper, i.e. in bulk. In fact, many shops and dealerships these days view oils and tires as fast moving, 'loss leader' items and sell below, if not way below MSRP in an effort to draw customers in. In my parts department we mark up on road tires $20 over cost, off road tires $10, and most oils a whopping $1 per quart. Truth is, if I can't make at least that much, and my accountant says thats not enough, on these items I don't need to devote the shelf space to them.
In the end, use whatever makes you comfortable. Think about how long you want to keep the particular bike. If it's a 'short timer', screw it, as long as whatever you use is slippery you'll probably be fine. If you plan on keeping it and putting a lot of milage on it, do your own research and come up with your own conclusions. My bet is that if you do that, you'll be using oil with a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle. ;)
Good luck!
The main reason is that most bikes have a wet clutch.
This means that the clutch is exposed to the engine oil. Clutches work on friction and some car oils have additives that reduce friction (friction modifiers) to the point that they can affect the operation of the clutch and/ or damage it.
I just use Castrol 10w30, Castrol 10w40, and Castrol 20w50. My motorcycle has about 80,000 miles on it.
Two thoughts on motorcycle oils versus car oils...on most bikes (Harleys excepted) you are lubricating the transmission as well as the engine and clutch. The pressures on the mating surfaces of the gears in the transmission cause oil to break down more quickly (I read somewhere) and motorcycle oil supposedly has ';longer molecular chains'; to alleviate this. May all be a bunch of propaganda designed to sell oil, for all I know, but I use whatever the manufacturer recommends for the main reason that if and when the motor or tranny goes ';kerflooey'; I can say, ';Hey, Dude, it's got YOUR oil in it...';
motor oil is motor oil, just don't use oil that has friction modifiers in it with a wet clutch. Castrol GTX will work just fine in your bike.
I use Amsoil in my hog. No other like it IMHO.
personally I use castrol actevo I have never had any clutch or tranny problems with my my ten bikes.
Here is an article written on the subject you decide
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.htmlMotorcycle oil?
In over 30 years of riding bikes, I have not used 1 bottle of cycle oil, never had any problems related to lubrication and last 15 years I have been using fully synthetic (namely Mobil 1) for all my cars and bikes. Never had any slipping clutch problems either.
the best advice i can give you is castrol gtx 10w40
i run it in all my bikes and never have any problems. what you want to avoid is the friction reducing additive, they will cause your cluch to slip.
In some cases, when the engine oil lubricates more than one thing, it is different.
Yeah most automotive oil's are Aluminum friendly. a lot of cars have aluminum heads as well as blocks. so the oil has been changed to help condition them. the motorcycle oil you are buying is most likely formulated for the motors though. they do need different detergents in them (All oils have detergents. It's all part of the viscosity. With out it you would not have the viscosity, that's how they get it there)
The base stocks in specific brands and types of motor oils are very similar. It's the additive package (including the aforementioned detergents) that separate them.
The argument as which is better, is one better than the other, etc has been an on going thing, and will continue to rage for the indefinite future. Primarily because of the relative newness of motorcycle specific oils to the marketplace and the lack of any real long term definitive test results.
In a nutshell, it has pretty well been established that all oils, offer short term protection and lubrication in a motorcycle engine. Tests that I've studied and read with regards to the various types of oils, how and when they break down under use in a motorcycle engine have been inconclusive in my mind. Could go either way, mainly depending upon the type of base stock.
The main thing that most all the 'experts' agree on is the friction modifier issue. If an oil is marketed and marked as an ';Energy Conservation'; oil it most definitely does contain friction modifiers. These additives give the oil a tendency to reduce friction between surfaces. Which is a good thing when we're talking about say, a piston and cylinder wall, but that turns into bad thing when discussing clutch plates.
The only energy conserving oils on the market are indeed automotive specific. Motorcycle specific oils and desiel engine oils do not.
Many riders, in an effort to be thrifty, not spend any more money than absolutely neccessary on thier machines, or to not pay for motorcycle shops outragous profit margins (rotflmao) use automotive oil, and most, especially those that trade bikes on a more or less normal schedule, get away with it. Many more use desiel oils due to the lack of friction modifiers. Heck, I know of several riders that use ATF in thier motorcycles gearboxes, have for years and swear they will never change.
The thing I have found through specific testing on my bikes is that a pure synthetic motorcycle specific oil remains consistant in make up and nature well past the scheduled oil changes. None of the oil samples I have sent in for testing show any break down what so ever at the recommended interval, or up to half again the suggested mileage. I've not gone twice the recommened mileage to do that test, and honestly probably won't! *lol* But up to a little over 6,000 miles I have never, not once, had a test result come back showing any negative results. So the extra $3, while not a huge concern to me in the first place, is even less so because I can, and do, go longer between oil changes with it.
Would the same thing happen with an automotive or desiel oil? Maybe. Even probably. But my personal nature is to use products designed for the particular application. I don't use dish soap in the washing machine or kerosene in the parts washer either.
Also, for what it's worth, let me clear the air right now as to the costs of motorcycle specific oils. I'm tired of reading and hearing from folks that don't really know wat they are talking about in relation to the margins on these oils. Truth and fact is that there is no more margin on oil than on anything else you'll get from a shop or dealership. Sorry guys, it's a fact. MSRP pricing is set by every frigging body but the retailer and the ONLY way for us to make any additional profit per item is to buy cheaper, i.e. in bulk. In fact, many shops and dealerships these days view oils and tires as fast moving, 'loss leader' items and sell below, if not way below MSRP in an effort to draw customers in. In my parts department we mark up on road tires $20 over cost, off road tires $10, and most oils a whopping $1 per quart. Truth is, if I can't make at least that much, and my accountant says thats not enough, on these items I don't need to devote the shelf space to them.
In the end, use whatever makes you comfortable. Think about how long you want to keep the particular bike. If it's a 'short timer', screw it, as long as whatever you use is slippery you'll probably be fine. If you plan on keeping it and putting a lot of milage on it, do your own research and come up with your own conclusions. My bet is that if you do that, you'll be using oil with a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle. ;)
Good luck!
The main reason is that most bikes have a wet clutch.
This means that the clutch is exposed to the engine oil. Clutches work on friction and some car oils have additives that reduce friction (friction modifiers) to the point that they can affect the operation of the clutch and/ or damage it.
I just use Castrol 10w30, Castrol 10w40, and Castrol 20w50. My motorcycle has about 80,000 miles on it.
Two thoughts on motorcycle oils versus car oils...on most bikes (Harleys excepted) you are lubricating the transmission as well as the engine and clutch. The pressures on the mating surfaces of the gears in the transmission cause oil to break down more quickly (I read somewhere) and motorcycle oil supposedly has ';longer molecular chains'; to alleviate this. May all be a bunch of propaganda designed to sell oil, for all I know, but I use whatever the manufacturer recommends for the main reason that if and when the motor or tranny goes ';kerflooey'; I can say, ';Hey, Dude, it's got YOUR oil in it...';
motor oil is motor oil, just don't use oil that has friction modifiers in it with a wet clutch. Castrol GTX will work just fine in your bike.
I use Amsoil in my hog. No other like it IMHO.
What type of oil do I use in my Triumph Motorcycle?
It is a 1972 Triumph Daytona 500. There is a small tank of oil under the seat and some i have to drain from the bottom of the engine too. Could someone explain the purpose and grade of oil to use in the tank under the seat and the amount and grade oil that goes in the crankcase? Thanks.What type of oil do I use in my Triumph Motorcycle?
Standard 1040What type of oil do I use in my Triumph Motorcycle?
Use either 10w/40 or 20w/50, depending on the ambient temperature where you ride.
The oil ONLY goes into the tank under the seat.
These engines are a ';dry sump'; engine, meaning that the crankcase will mostly be dry of oil. There will be some residual oil in the crank, as some will seep past the check valve behind the oil pump to collect in the crankcase.
If you're going to work on this bike, you NEED a shop manual!
Any kind of Motorcycle oil will work
motorcycle oil
Standard 1040What type of oil do I use in my Triumph Motorcycle?
Use either 10w/40 or 20w/50, depending on the ambient temperature where you ride.
The oil ONLY goes into the tank under the seat.
These engines are a ';dry sump'; engine, meaning that the crankcase will mostly be dry of oil. There will be some residual oil in the crank, as some will seep past the check valve behind the oil pump to collect in the crankcase.
If you're going to work on this bike, you NEED a shop manual!
Any kind of Motorcycle oil will work
motorcycle oil
How do I fix a tiny crack in my oil drain plug, 1981 aluminum cx500 motorcycle.?
I have a hairline crack in the hole where my oil plug is. It leaks slowly but too much for me to ignore. I must fix it, but can I weld it and re-cut some threads? I have a stick welder but I fear that would just destroy the plug due to the whole thing being aluminum. Any ideas or help from the pros?How do I fix a tiny crack in my oil drain plug, 1981 aluminum cx500 motorcycle.?
jb weld itHow do I fix a tiny crack in my oil drain plug, 1981 aluminum cx500 motorcycle.?
use brake clean to clean it up good , then you can use jb weld on it . you have to get all the oil out of it
jb weld itHow do I fix a tiny crack in my oil drain plug, 1981 aluminum cx500 motorcycle.?
use brake clean to clean it up good , then you can use jb weld on it . you have to get all the oil out of it
What size socket is requied to remove the oil drain plug on a Honda CRF230F motorcycle?
I am trying to change the oil on the motorcycle myself, but everything I have doesn't fit. I do not own a service manual, two dealers have given me different answers. Can any of you out there tell me for sure, without a doubt?What size socket is requied to remove the oil drain plug on a Honda CRF230F motorcycle?
15mmWhat size socket is requied to remove the oil drain plug on a Honda CRF230F motorcycle?
Sure Drain Oil Plug - http://www.cablecar.biz/straightbladeplugs/suredrainoilplug.html Report Abuse
well, instead of draining the oil from your car, just go to a junk yard and pick up a old motor that will surely break down soon. then you will feel better. if i was you i would go to a junk yard and pick up a 06 scion to. you will have such good luck with it that because there are no gauges so u wont have to worry about any problems you dont see.
Honda uses 17mm for all their oil drain bolts.
a Cressent wrench ! FARMER TOOLS yee haww!
9/16 is 14 mm.. so thats to small
11/16 is 17mm .. so could be to big..
5/8 is 15 mm .. but these are aproximate sizes
you would be better off going %26amp; buying a metric socket set..
or open end/ ring spanner set..
I think it is the size 17 millimeter
guessing either a 15mm or 17mm but I can check tonight after I get home if the sun is still up (no lights in the shop yet) on my daughter's bike ...
do you have a metric socket set? if not, try a 9/16, 5/8 and 11/16 ... one of those might work since they hit all around a 15mm and 17mm...
EDIT: either a 15/16 or a 24mm will work at least on my daughter's '04 CRF230.
I guess I should ask what you have tried that is too small and too large ...
15mmWhat size socket is requied to remove the oil drain plug on a Honda CRF230F motorcycle?
Sure Drain Oil Plug - http://www.cablecar.biz/straightbladeplugs/suredrainoilplug.html Report Abuse
well, instead of draining the oil from your car, just go to a junk yard and pick up a old motor that will surely break down soon. then you will feel better. if i was you i would go to a junk yard and pick up a 06 scion to. you will have such good luck with it that because there are no gauges so u wont have to worry about any problems you dont see.
Honda uses 17mm for all their oil drain bolts.
a Cressent wrench ! FARMER TOOLS yee haww!
9/16 is 14 mm.. so thats to small
11/16 is 17mm .. so could be to big..
5/8 is 15 mm .. but these are aproximate sizes
you would be better off going %26amp; buying a metric socket set..
or open end/ ring spanner set..
I think it is the size 17 millimeter
guessing either a 15mm or 17mm but I can check tonight after I get home if the sun is still up (no lights in the shop yet) on my daughter's bike ...
do you have a metric socket set? if not, try a 9/16, 5/8 and 11/16 ... one of those might work since they hit all around a 15mm and 17mm...
EDIT: either a 15/16 or a 24mm will work at least on my daughter's '04 CRF230.
I guess I should ask what you have tried that is too small and too large ...
What oil filter should i get for my motorcycle?
I have a 1994 Honda Magna vf 750. Also where do i get it? Can i go to farm and fleet or something?What oil filter should i get for my motorcycle?
I use Purolator ';Pure One'; PL14612, from Pep Boys, when I can get it, the Walmart ';Super Tech'; crossover, when I can't.
Here's why:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Fil鈥?/a>What oil filter should i get for my motorcycle?
Personally, I have been using oil filters made by K%26amp;N, yes the air filter people. The best thing about them is that they have a 17mm nut made right on the end of them so they are extremely easy to get on and off.
Unfortunately they cost a little more, most any bike shop can order one for you. Visit their website to find out which number you need.
If you do not have a motorcycle dealership near you, enter the info of your motorcycle in Google and it is possible to order on line, or have it shipped/delivered to you.
There could be a car filter that fits on your bike BUT DO USE IT. they are made for cars not bikes . They are different.
I use Purolator ';Pure One'; PL14612, from Pep Boys, when I can get it, the Walmart ';Super Tech'; crossover, when I can't.
Here's why:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Fil鈥?/a>What oil filter should i get for my motorcycle?
Personally, I have been using oil filters made by K%26amp;N, yes the air filter people. The best thing about them is that they have a 17mm nut made right on the end of them so they are extremely easy to get on and off.
Unfortunately they cost a little more, most any bike shop can order one for you. Visit their website to find out which number you need.
If you do not have a motorcycle dealership near you, enter the info of your motorcycle in Google and it is possible to order on line, or have it shipped/delivered to you.
There could be a car filter that fits on your bike BUT DO USE IT. they are made for cars not bikes . They are different.
How to flush a motorcycle engine after a water leakage in the oil problem ?
I just fixed my suzuki gsx-R 750 from a water leakage into to engine oil. Now I have to flush the engine. I've seen in supermarkets that they sell some kinda Engine Oil, that contains kerosene and other things ? Is it ok to use this, or just flush it with some cheap oil ??How to flush a motorcycle engine after a water leakage in the oil problem ?
I personally wouldn't use it. the motor oil also lubricates the clutch and any additives could damage the clutch. i would put new oil in run it for a few miles then change the oil again.How to flush a motorcycle engine after a water leakage in the oil problem ?
put cheap oil in it and run for a couple of minutes.drain and repeat on e more time.change the filter and put in new oil.you should be good to go.soap opera
I personally wouldn't use it. the motor oil also lubricates the clutch and any additives could damage the clutch. i would put new oil in run it for a few miles then change the oil again.How to flush a motorcycle engine after a water leakage in the oil problem ?
put cheap oil in it and run for a couple of minutes.drain and repeat on e more time.change the filter and put in new oil.you should be good to go.
I worry about sabotage, someone adding sand in the oil cap on my motorcycle engine, how can I lock it?
My motorcycle has a gas cap lock, but no oil cap lock.
I am worried that someone can remove the oil cap and fill it up with sand or dirt without me knowing and cause serious harm to my engine.
I thought about doing this to someones Harley, that gave me that idea and made me worry about someone doing that to my bike.
How can i install a lock on the engine oil cap or my engine?I worry about sabotage, someone adding sand in the oil cap on my motorcycle engine, how can I lock it?
They do make them, found a website below (UK) that sells them so it wouldn't be hard to imagine that they have them in the US. I have never met a person who would take it out on someones ride (car, bike, whatever) without confronting the person first. If you have an issue with a person confront them and not their ride, that is a pretty low thing to do.I worry about sabotage, someone adding sand in the oil cap on my motorcycle engine, how can I lock it?
Always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions. We need all of that info to give an informed answer.
Most bikes have a standard cap.
Some Jap bikes have a flat plug requiring a screw driver to open it.
If your bike has a standard type metal cap, drill a hole (off set) through the handle.
Install a metal ring (like one used on a key chain).
Give it a spot weld so it wont move.
Chain %26amp; lock it to the frame.
If the engine has a plastic cap, buy an aftermarket chrome cap.
gee a stupid question from a stupid person named bart AGAIN stop being a dick and you shouldn't have to worry about someone putting sand in . but since you thought of doing it to someone elses bike shows what a true pussy you are you got a problem with someone take it face to face only pussy's try to hurt objects and not the person get a fricken life
I don't recommend that you try to lock the oil cap, first of all, I don't think it's even possible, and it's a bit drastic. In my opinion, the best thing to do is just keep it in a safe place, like a locked garage with some kind of security, like an alarm.
Man, you are pretty paranoid.
you dont even have a bike,and on a harley,the filter would take care of the sand before it got to the engine,cant say that would happen on japp junk.
if you had a bike,i'd use paint stripper all over it,and in your crank,posmf.
';I thought about doing this to someones Harley, that gave me that idea and made me worry about someone doing that to my bike.';
Hmm...ever hear of Karma?
Maybe if you weren't such an irritating POS, you wouldn't HAVE to worry about it.
Just install a ring on cap and if there isn't something nearby, install a ring nearby and use one of those plastic seals they sell at truck stops. You don't have to lock it, just have to know if someone has had it open.
Why would you want to put sand in someones crankcase? That makes no sense. If you are being truthful then you really need to seek some professional help. You just ain't right.
If your personality in real life is as dickariffic as you are here I would be very worried about that happening.
I don't understand how the people that moderate these forums don't ban this kid. It's to the point that even when he's offering 'normal' advice he still gets 8 thumbs down...just for being him.
You really are a punk aren't you? I'd be more worried about the serious harm that's obviously been done to your brain.
Someone lock this kid up. Please? (Preferably in a jail cell with 15 angry Hell's Angels guys.)
I hope somebody does put sand in your oil. What a piece of work you are. Your parents must be so proud.
you are such a scumbag I hope somebody does worse to you and your wannabe bike.I would help them.
I would just sit next to the bike with a shotgun 24 hours a day 7 days a week. They are all out to get you!
get a life...........remember what goes around comes around....maybe you should be ridding a bicycle not a motorcycle
Rudy H. took the words out of my mouth.
a mind is a terrible thing to waste...
can't help it can you!
I am worried that someone can remove the oil cap and fill it up with sand or dirt without me knowing and cause serious harm to my engine.
I thought about doing this to someones Harley, that gave me that idea and made me worry about someone doing that to my bike.
How can i install a lock on the engine oil cap or my engine?I worry about sabotage, someone adding sand in the oil cap on my motorcycle engine, how can I lock it?
They do make them, found a website below (UK) that sells them so it wouldn't be hard to imagine that they have them in the US. I have never met a person who would take it out on someones ride (car, bike, whatever) without confronting the person first. If you have an issue with a person confront them and not their ride, that is a pretty low thing to do.I worry about sabotage, someone adding sand in the oil cap on my motorcycle engine, how can I lock it?
Always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions. We need all of that info to give an informed answer.
Most bikes have a standard cap.
Some Jap bikes have a flat plug requiring a screw driver to open it.
If your bike has a standard type metal cap, drill a hole (off set) through the handle.
Install a metal ring (like one used on a key chain).
Give it a spot weld so it wont move.
Chain %26amp; lock it to the frame.
If the engine has a plastic cap, buy an aftermarket chrome cap.
gee a stupid question from a stupid person named bart AGAIN stop being a dick and you shouldn't have to worry about someone putting sand in . but since you thought of doing it to someone elses bike shows what a true pussy you are you got a problem with someone take it face to face only pussy's try to hurt objects and not the person get a fricken life
I don't recommend that you try to lock the oil cap, first of all, I don't think it's even possible, and it's a bit drastic. In my opinion, the best thing to do is just keep it in a safe place, like a locked garage with some kind of security, like an alarm.
Man, you are pretty paranoid.
you dont even have a bike,and on a harley,the filter would take care of the sand before it got to the engine,cant say that would happen on japp junk.
if you had a bike,i'd use paint stripper all over it,and in your crank,posmf.
';I thought about doing this to someones Harley, that gave me that idea and made me worry about someone doing that to my bike.';
Hmm...ever hear of Karma?
Maybe if you weren't such an irritating POS, you wouldn't HAVE to worry about it.
Just install a ring on cap and if there isn't something nearby, install a ring nearby and use one of those plastic seals they sell at truck stops. You don't have to lock it, just have to know if someone has had it open.
Why would you want to put sand in someones crankcase? That makes no sense. If you are being truthful then you really need to seek some professional help. You just ain't right.
If your personality in real life is as dickariffic as you are here I would be very worried about that happening.
I don't understand how the people that moderate these forums don't ban this kid. It's to the point that even when he's offering 'normal' advice he still gets 8 thumbs down...just for being him.
You really are a punk aren't you? I'd be more worried about the serious harm that's obviously been done to your brain.
Someone lock this kid up. Please? (Preferably in a jail cell with 15 angry Hell's Angels guys.)
I hope somebody does put sand in your oil. What a piece of work you are. Your parents must be so proud.
you are such a scumbag I hope somebody does worse to you and your wannabe bike.I would help them.
I would just sit next to the bike with a shotgun 24 hours a day 7 days a week. They are all out to get you!
get a life...........remember what goes around comes around....maybe you should be ridding a bicycle not a motorcycle
Rudy H. took the words out of my mouth.
a mind is a terrible thing to waste...
can't help it can you!
Anyone using amsoil motorcycle oil and oil filter in their sport bike?
has anyone used the 10-40 motorcycle oil and amsoil oil
filter and did they like the results. tell me your story.
sport bike related. 51 should have a answer for me.Anyone using amsoil motorcycle oil and oil filter in their sport bike?
I used to run amsoil but a friend of mine racing a aprilia mille had some engine damage from that oil It tends to get very thin
I just dont think it is the best anymore
I run Castrol R4 superbike oil in my rc 5/40 and the bikes shifts better than ever the rc calls for 10/40
colin edwards ran the 5/40 and it was designed for twins
I run castrol actevo 10/40 in my zrex and i love it Oil and filter every 5000
Amsoil does make a good product but they have jacked the prices lately. I do still run their tranny fluid in my truck. But i have swiched to royal purple for the engine Just because I can get it for 3 dollars a quartAnyone using amsoil motorcycle oil and oil filter in their sport bike?
best stuff I ever used is called Rock oil its for ferrari and lamborghini 12 bucks a pint but worth it. Royal purple is really good to.
I just sold some to a cop a few weeks ago for his ZX9R. He has been using it for a while so I guess he likes it.
My boss at my day job has the 20W-50 Amsoil motorcycle oil in his Kawasaki V-twin and immediately noticed his fan coming on less often!? I guess it really does help engines run cooler.
filter and did they like the results. tell me your story.
sport bike related. 51 should have a answer for me.Anyone using amsoil motorcycle oil and oil filter in their sport bike?
I used to run amsoil but a friend of mine racing a aprilia mille had some engine damage from that oil It tends to get very thin
I just dont think it is the best anymore
I run Castrol R4 superbike oil in my rc 5/40 and the bikes shifts better than ever the rc calls for 10/40
colin edwards ran the 5/40 and it was designed for twins
I run castrol actevo 10/40 in my zrex and i love it Oil and filter every 5000
Amsoil does make a good product but they have jacked the prices lately. I do still run their tranny fluid in my truck. But i have swiched to royal purple for the engine Just because I can get it for 3 dollars a quartAnyone using amsoil motorcycle oil and oil filter in their sport bike?
best stuff I ever used is called Rock oil its for ferrari and lamborghini 12 bucks a pint but worth it. Royal purple is really good to.
I just sold some to a cop a few weeks ago for his ZX9R. He has been using it for a while so I guess he likes it.
My boss at my day job has the 20W-50 Amsoil motorcycle oil in his Kawasaki V-twin and immediately noticed his fan coming on less often!? I guess it really does help engines run cooler.
Can I mix 20w50 oil with 10w40 in my motorcycle?
I have a 1984 Honda Nighthawk 700S that is about 1 quart low. I need to top off the oil and the only motorcycle oil the local parts store has is conventional 20w50 and synthetic 10w40. Can I mix either one of these with the conventional 10w40 that's already in the bike?Can I mix 20w50 oil with 10w40 in my motorcycle?
Actually the 20w50 might be a welcome treat for the 1984 700s...any oil is better than running dry.Can I mix 20w50 oil with 10w40 in my motorcycle?
I am laughing at previous answer.
The answer is, of course you can mix them.
I guarantee, you will never know the difference.
no, you can't mix different weights of oil or conventional with synthetic and still keep the properties that are needed to properly lubricate the engine.
If you are at the local parts store #1 can you mex them? Yes you can.
provided you have read the back of the bottle and it does not state.....friction reducing or energy conserving. your clutch will never be the same. motor oil that contacts the clutch can not do this obviously.
Actually the 20w50 might be a welcome treat for the 1984 700s...any oil is better than running dry.Can I mix 20w50 oil with 10w40 in my motorcycle?
I am laughing at previous answer.
The answer is, of course you can mix them.
I guarantee, you will never know the difference.
no, you can't mix different weights of oil or conventional with synthetic and still keep the properties that are needed to properly lubricate the engine.
If you are at the local parts store #1 can you mex them? Yes you can.
provided you have read the back of the bottle and it does not state.....friction reducing or energy conserving. your clutch will never be the same. motor oil that contacts the clutch can not do this obviously.
How often should you change the oil in a Motorcycle?
I run synthetic oils in my motorcycles, and normally change oil and filter at about 6000 miles. Transmission and final drive (shaft drive) are changed every second oil change. If you can't ride year-round where you live, then it's also a good idea to do a full service, including an oil change before putting the bike up for the winter.
Other service to consider...
Battery... Check at least once a month, and add distilled water if needed.
Brake fluid (and clutch fluid, if equipped with hydraulic clutch)... Flush system and fill with new fluid every two years.
Antifreeze (if bike is liquid cooled)... Every 24000 miles, or two years, whichever comes first. Replace with a 50/50 mixture of a good quality antifreeze and distilled water.
Air Filter(s) Depends on riding conditions, but street bikes should change every 12000 miles. Dirt bikes, inspect frequently and change as needed.
Fuel filter(s) if equipped... Same as air filters.
Chain lube... At least weekly, or after washing or riding in the rain.
A clean bike is a happy bike! You don't have to wax and buff it after every ride, but at least wash it once in a while and get rid of the mud and dead bugs!How often should you change the oil in a Motorcycle?
Every season.How often should you change the oil in a Motorcycle?
You should change the oil in a motorcycle at least once a year.
Good Luck Hope this helps.
if its a street bike prolly like every 1500-2000 miles on a dirt bike every ten hours of riding is best checking fluid periodically of course
On a new bike, get your first one at 100 miles. During the ';break in'; period, there will never be as much crap floating about in the oil as there is after this short time.
After that, I like to get mine done every 1000 miles, but I have a service contract that includes unlimited oil changes. With my old bike, I used Bel-Ray semi-synthetic every 3,000 mi.
Sure, it seems like the dealers rip you off, but you have to realize that motorcycles do not have separate transmissions like cars do. The engine and tranny use the same oil, and internal combustion makes the oil very acidic. You don't want that crap eating your engine AND gears, do you? Motorcycle oil contains special additives that neutralize more of those acids so your bike runs better.
A wet clutch also runs in the same oil bath, so bike oil also has certain friction modifiers to keep your clutch plates from sticking together as well. You can use automotive motor oil in a pinch, but the bike won't FEEL right.
To do it yourself, a gallon of Bel-Ray semi-synthetic will run you about $25, but the filters are still dirt cheap. Again, motorcycles use the oil for both the engine and transmission, so a sportbike can take as much as 4 quarts to fill. But you know what you put into the bike, when you did it, and can be assured that you did the job right.
actually it depend on the type of the vechile u r using and the oil also as u get a manual with ur bike u can get the correct details in that as the company gives the correct information abt their product released i got a bike and i change oil for every 2000 or 2500 km
Once per year is a good rule of thumb, unless you ride tons, then you may need more.
You should run new oil through your bike every 2,000 miles if it is a sports bike. They run very high RPMS and oil is your motor life. Do you HAVE TO...no. But SHOULD YOU...most definitely.
I change mine every 3K miles in my car. I ride my bike harder than my car, plus my bike's engine works a lot harder than my car's. I tend to change mine more frequently then the book tells me. If you ride a cruiser, every 3K miles is fine. If you ride a sport bike, and ride it hard once in a while, I would change it every 1500 or so miles. Good lubrication is essential to engine longevity and performance.
The standard oil change intervals depends on the oil you use. In my 84 Shadow I change oil every 2500 miles, this is because the oil I use in it is a petro base 10-30. This bike has 125,000 miles and I have never had to crack the top on it as of this date. My Harley calls for a change every 5000 miles. In this one I use a synthetic oil that does not break down as fast as petro based oils do, how ever I change the oil on it at about 4000 miles. If you are starting the bike for the first time of the year I usually start it and run it for about 5 minutes at idle speed. I then turn it off and change the oil and filter. This will clear any ';gunk'; and start the season with fresh oil. One more note if you are using a petro based oil do not switch to syntec oil. The techs that I know all agree that the bikes do not respond well to the change.
One more note, an oil change on my Harley isn't cheap when the oil cost $9.00 a quart and it uses 3 quarts, plus filter cost.
Very first oil change is at 500 miles, after that, ever 5k for HD, for any 2 stroke or higher rev. engine every 2500 miles.
that depends if u ride it 24/7 u sould change it at least once every two months if its just sitting around 3or4 months average
I have a 50 cc scooter, and it says in the manual ..every 3000 kms. Mine is a 4 stroke.
3000 miles
depends on the bike. For HD, the manual says every 5k although the dealer will try to convince you to bring it in every 2.5k so they can rip you off. Alot of jap bikes recommoned 4-5k
i don't care what anyone says about the dealer after your first oil change at 1000 miles you should change it every 3000 miles no matter what
Every 3000 miles, I'm not to sure what that is in kilometers
Most motorcycle manuals will suggest about every 3000 miles but it depends on what conditions you ride in (short trips are harder on engine oil than long ones - doesn't stay at operating temp long enough to burn off condensation).
It is also a good idea to change the oil before storing your bike for the winter (if you're in a location that has harsh winters and you won't ride for a while).
Changing the oil in a motorcycle is cheap and easy to do yourself (filter is usually less than $10 and the cost of a couple quarts of oil.) To me it seems worth it to do it frequently and keep the bike in good shape.
500 after your break in period, then after that about every 1000 miles or so. THat's what we do here
Other service to consider...
Battery... Check at least once a month, and add distilled water if needed.
Brake fluid (and clutch fluid, if equipped with hydraulic clutch)... Flush system and fill with new fluid every two years.
Antifreeze (if bike is liquid cooled)... Every 24000 miles, or two years, whichever comes first. Replace with a 50/50 mixture of a good quality antifreeze and distilled water.
Air Filter(s) Depends on riding conditions, but street bikes should change every 12000 miles. Dirt bikes, inspect frequently and change as needed.
Fuel filter(s) if equipped... Same as air filters.
Chain lube... At least weekly, or after washing or riding in the rain.
A clean bike is a happy bike! You don't have to wax and buff it after every ride, but at least wash it once in a while and get rid of the mud and dead bugs!How often should you change the oil in a Motorcycle?
Every season.How often should you change the oil in a Motorcycle?
You should change the oil in a motorcycle at least once a year.
Good Luck Hope this helps.
if its a street bike prolly like every 1500-2000 miles on a dirt bike every ten hours of riding is best checking fluid periodically of course
On a new bike, get your first one at 100 miles. During the ';break in'; period, there will never be as much crap floating about in the oil as there is after this short time.
After that, I like to get mine done every 1000 miles, but I have a service contract that includes unlimited oil changes. With my old bike, I used Bel-Ray semi-synthetic every 3,000 mi.
Sure, it seems like the dealers rip you off, but you have to realize that motorcycles do not have separate transmissions like cars do. The engine and tranny use the same oil, and internal combustion makes the oil very acidic. You don't want that crap eating your engine AND gears, do you? Motorcycle oil contains special additives that neutralize more of those acids so your bike runs better.
A wet clutch also runs in the same oil bath, so bike oil also has certain friction modifiers to keep your clutch plates from sticking together as well. You can use automotive motor oil in a pinch, but the bike won't FEEL right.
To do it yourself, a gallon of Bel-Ray semi-synthetic will run you about $25, but the filters are still dirt cheap. Again, motorcycles use the oil for both the engine and transmission, so a sportbike can take as much as 4 quarts to fill. But you know what you put into the bike, when you did it, and can be assured that you did the job right.
actually it depend on the type of the vechile u r using and the oil also as u get a manual with ur bike u can get the correct details in that as the company gives the correct information abt their product released i got a bike and i change oil for every 2000 or 2500 km
Once per year is a good rule of thumb, unless you ride tons, then you may need more.
You should run new oil through your bike every 2,000 miles if it is a sports bike. They run very high RPMS and oil is your motor life. Do you HAVE TO...no. But SHOULD YOU...most definitely.
I change mine every 3K miles in my car. I ride my bike harder than my car, plus my bike's engine works a lot harder than my car's. I tend to change mine more frequently then the book tells me. If you ride a cruiser, every 3K miles is fine. If you ride a sport bike, and ride it hard once in a while, I would change it every 1500 or so miles. Good lubrication is essential to engine longevity and performance.
The standard oil change intervals depends on the oil you use. In my 84 Shadow I change oil every 2500 miles, this is because the oil I use in it is a petro base 10-30. This bike has 125,000 miles and I have never had to crack the top on it as of this date. My Harley calls for a change every 5000 miles. In this one I use a synthetic oil that does not break down as fast as petro based oils do, how ever I change the oil on it at about 4000 miles. If you are starting the bike for the first time of the year I usually start it and run it for about 5 minutes at idle speed. I then turn it off and change the oil and filter. This will clear any ';gunk'; and start the season with fresh oil. One more note if you are using a petro based oil do not switch to syntec oil. The techs that I know all agree that the bikes do not respond well to the change.
One more note, an oil change on my Harley isn't cheap when the oil cost $9.00 a quart and it uses 3 quarts, plus filter cost.
Very first oil change is at 500 miles, after that, ever 5k for HD, for any 2 stroke or higher rev. engine every 2500 miles.
that depends if u ride it 24/7 u sould change it at least once every two months if its just sitting around 3or4 months average
I have a 50 cc scooter, and it says in the manual ..every 3000 kms. Mine is a 4 stroke.
3000 miles
depends on the bike. For HD, the manual says every 5k although the dealer will try to convince you to bring it in every 2.5k so they can rip you off. Alot of jap bikes recommoned 4-5k
i don't care what anyone says about the dealer after your first oil change at 1000 miles you should change it every 3000 miles no matter what
Every 3000 miles, I'm not to sure what that is in kilometers
Most motorcycle manuals will suggest about every 3000 miles but it depends on what conditions you ride in (short trips are harder on engine oil than long ones - doesn't stay at operating temp long enough to burn off condensation).
It is also a good idea to change the oil before storing your bike for the winter (if you're in a location that has harsh winters and you won't ride for a while).
Changing the oil in a motorcycle is cheap and easy to do yourself (filter is usually less than $10 and the cost of a couple quarts of oil.) To me it seems worth it to do it frequently and keep the bike in good shape.
500 after your break in period, then after that about every 1000 miles or so. THat's what we do here
How many quarts of oil are needed to change the oil in a 1979 Yamaha XS650 motorcycle?
Also, where is the oil filter located. Thank you.How many quarts of oil are needed to change the oil in a 1979 Yamaha XS650 motorcycle?
It takes 2 to 2.5 quarts
There's a filter on right hand side of engine,,
under that round plate on the clutch cover.
They also have a screen inside the rectangle plate underneath engine,,where the drain plug screws in
....................
Here's an article that may help
http://home.comcast.net/~fzmax/XS/05_Eng鈥?/a>
Here's a good site for XS650 general Info.
http://www.650central.com/
On that site,,,here's a source for the improved sump screen if you're interested in that.
Scroll down the page,you'll see it
http://www.650central.com/engine.htm
Here's their brief comment on ';lubricants';.
It's worth a read,,and taking it seriously.
http://www.650central.com/lubricants.htm
Hope that helps!
It takes 2 to 2.5 quarts
There's a filter on right hand side of engine,,
under that round plate on the clutch cover.
They also have a screen inside the rectangle plate underneath engine,,where the drain plug screws in
....................
Here's an article that may help
http://home.comcast.net/~fzmax/XS/05_Eng鈥?/a>
Here's a good site for XS650 general Info.
http://www.650central.com/
On that site,,,here's a source for the improved sump screen if you're interested in that.
Scroll down the page,you'll see it
http://www.650central.com/engine.htm
Here's their brief comment on ';lubricants';.
It's worth a read,,and taking it seriously.
http://www.650central.com/lubricants.htm
Hope that helps!
Why does my oil light show on my motorcycle?
I have a 2006 ex250 kawasaki ninja and the oil light flickered on then off like two times... It's full of oil, so what could it be?Why does my oil light show on my motorcycle?
When did this happen?
If it happened after a long ride on a hot day and the bike was idling then it isn't uncommon for the oil to get hot and thin out so much that it occasionally trips the low-pressure sensor. If it's happening at speed then you need to have it checked out, but if it's only happening at idle after the engine's hot then it's probably nothing to worry about.Why does my oil light show on my motorcycle?
Malfunctioning sensor.
take it to the dealer and have it checked out.
it could be nothing or it could be a problem.
when you went for you oil change thay probably did not reset the setting.
You might have an oil pump going bad.soap opera
When did this happen?
If it happened after a long ride on a hot day and the bike was idling then it isn't uncommon for the oil to get hot and thin out so much that it occasionally trips the low-pressure sensor. If it's happening at speed then you need to have it checked out, but if it's only happening at idle after the engine's hot then it's probably nothing to worry about.Why does my oil light show on my motorcycle?
Malfunctioning sensor.
take it to the dealer and have it checked out.
it could be nothing or it could be a problem.
when you went for you oil change thay probably did not reset the setting.
You might have an oil pump going bad.
How do i know when it's time to get an oil change on my motorcycle?
I've got a 200cc 4 stroke I bought a few months ago and I don't know when it's the last time the previous owner changed the oil. Also, how could I change the oil myself?How do i know when it's time to get an oil change on my motorcycle?
for as cheap as it is you should change the oil often, if you just bought the bike and its used change the oil. its just like a car, find oil plug, drain old oil, change oil filter or clean if its a reusable one and put in new oil.How do i know when it's time to get an oil change on my motorcycle?
Ya i would just change it anyway, but usually you tell if it needs changed based on the color. If its black, then its all burnt up and needs changed. Go to ur local motorcycle shop and they'll set you up with the correct oil to use.
I change mine every 500 miles
Get it done anyway. Just search online using the model #.
for as cheap as it is you should change the oil often, if you just bought the bike and its used change the oil. its just like a car, find oil plug, drain old oil, change oil filter or clean if its a reusable one and put in new oil.How do i know when it's time to get an oil change on my motorcycle?
Ya i would just change it anyway, but usually you tell if it needs changed based on the color. If its black, then its all burnt up and needs changed. Go to ur local motorcycle shop and they'll set you up with the correct oil to use.
I change mine every 500 miles
Get it done anyway. Just search online using the model #.
I Changed The Oil In My Motorcycle And Now It Wants To Smoke Any Ideas?
Hi Just wondering if anyone might know the problem with my motorcycle, it seems that the oil indicator does'nt work but i changed the oil anyway, but now it wants to smoke Please helpI Changed The Oil In My Motorcycle And Now It Wants To Smoke Any Ideas?
Too much oil.I Changed The Oil In My Motorcycle And Now It Wants To Smoke Any Ideas?
So the oil indicator idiot light does not work, change the bulb not the oil, and or possibly change the oil pressure sending switch (test it first to see if it is bad per the shop manual).
so you changed the oil and now the bike smokes-did you put too much in? Where is it smoking from-exhaust pipe, or did you spill some on the engine and it is burning off? ?Since you did not say what bike, year make and model you have it is impossible to say just how much oil is needed but it will be between 2.5 quarts and 3.5 quarts
Did you use ';motorcycle oil';?
Is the smoke coming out of the exhaust or is it possible you have an oil leak and the oil is smoking off the exhaust or motor?
I'd check the oil level as you may have put too much.
One time I put in some cheap oil that said it was for ';motorcycles'; from the auto parts place. My bike definitely ran funky on it. Switched back to the Honda branded oil and the funkiness went away. Just my 2 cents.
What kind of oil did you put in it? Non Detergent oil will cause it to smoke, at least it did when I used it in my riding lawn mower. Just a thought.
Edit: to the guy below me, WHITE SMOKE isn't oil. BLUE SMOKE is oil. Overfilling is most likely the cause of your problem. NON DETERGENT oil WILL MAKE IT SMOKE ALSO.
The guy above is right, you over filled the oil. The excess oil is blowing into the air intake that is why you get the white smoke.
I agree with everyone else to much oil. If that don't work try a nicotine patch
Too much oil.I Changed The Oil In My Motorcycle And Now It Wants To Smoke Any Ideas?
So the oil indicator idiot light does not work, change the bulb not the oil, and or possibly change the oil pressure sending switch (test it first to see if it is bad per the shop manual).
so you changed the oil and now the bike smokes-did you put too much in? Where is it smoking from-exhaust pipe, or did you spill some on the engine and it is burning off? ?Since you did not say what bike, year make and model you have it is impossible to say just how much oil is needed but it will be between 2.5 quarts and 3.5 quarts
Did you use ';motorcycle oil';?
Is the smoke coming out of the exhaust or is it possible you have an oil leak and the oil is smoking off the exhaust or motor?
I'd check the oil level as you may have put too much.
One time I put in some cheap oil that said it was for ';motorcycles'; from the auto parts place. My bike definitely ran funky on it. Switched back to the Honda branded oil and the funkiness went away. Just my 2 cents.
What kind of oil did you put in it? Non Detergent oil will cause it to smoke, at least it did when I used it in my riding lawn mower. Just a thought.
Edit: to the guy below me, WHITE SMOKE isn't oil. BLUE SMOKE is oil. Overfilling is most likely the cause of your problem. NON DETERGENT oil WILL MAKE IT SMOKE ALSO.
The guy above is right, you over filled the oil. The excess oil is blowing into the air intake that is why you get the white smoke.
I agree with everyone else to much oil. If that don't work try a nicotine patch
What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
I recently purchased a 1986 Yamaha Virago and it's time for an oil change. Any advice on what kind of oil, oil filter and air filter I should get would be especially helpful. Thanks in advance!What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
motorcycle oil 10-40What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
Use a 10-40 grade motorcycle specific oil such as Castrol. I would stay away from the synthetics with the older motorcycles.
Go to your Yamaha motorcycle shop and buy a Yamaha oil filter and air filter. They will fit better and work better than aftermarket. You can also buy the oil from your motorcycle dealer, though it will cost a bit more.
Use the grade suggested by the maker.I like synthetic oil better.It costs more but lasts twice as long as crude oil.
motorcycle oil 10-40What kind of oil should I use in my motorcycle?
Use a 10-40 grade motorcycle specific oil such as Castrol. I would stay away from the synthetics with the older motorcycles.
Go to your Yamaha motorcycle shop and buy a Yamaha oil filter and air filter. They will fit better and work better than aftermarket. You can also buy the oil from your motorcycle dealer, though it will cost a bit more.
Use the grade suggested by the maker.I like synthetic oil better.It costs more but lasts twice as long as crude oil.
My motorcycle oil pressure gauge is low and the voltage gauge is maxed. Whats the problem?
2006 Harley Davidson Street GlideMy motorcycle oil pressure gauge is low and the voltage gauge is maxed. Whats the problem?
Oil Pressue low....when? at idle, at operating speed? HD's run about 10 psi at idle, and most guages read 40-60 at operating speed. If it reads lower than those #'s, you most likely need a new oil pump. Take it to a shop and have them do an oil pressure test.How many miles are on the bike? If it has more than 30,000 on it, you want to have the cam chain tensioners inspected for wear. If they are worn to the point of needing replacement, that could also be related to the oil pressure situation. The worn away material tends to damage the oil pump, causing low pressure. If you need to have the pump replaced, DEFINITELY go with the new Screamin Eagle Pump/Cam Plate Upgrade. As far as the charging goes, you need to have the charging system checked out, if it's over charging, most likely the voltage regulator is bad.My motorcycle oil pressure gauge is low and the voltage gauge is maxed. Whats the problem?
I don't know which, but if the oil pressure gauge is electrial and not mechanical, the two could be related since the oil gauge actually measures the amount of current flowing through it and not the oil pressure itself. The sending unit is what measures oil pressure and uses that to impede the flow of current through the gauge.
I guess the first thing you need to do is to check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running to see if it really is overcharging. If not, then it's time to start checking electrical connections and go from there.
Check for a faulty ground wire to the gage cluster.
The wires go switched.
Oil Pressue low....when? at idle, at operating speed? HD's run about 10 psi at idle, and most guages read 40-60 at operating speed. If it reads lower than those #'s, you most likely need a new oil pump. Take it to a shop and have them do an oil pressure test.How many miles are on the bike? If it has more than 30,000 on it, you want to have the cam chain tensioners inspected for wear. If they are worn to the point of needing replacement, that could also be related to the oil pressure situation. The worn away material tends to damage the oil pump, causing low pressure. If you need to have the pump replaced, DEFINITELY go with the new Screamin Eagle Pump/Cam Plate Upgrade. As far as the charging goes, you need to have the charging system checked out, if it's over charging, most likely the voltage regulator is bad.My motorcycle oil pressure gauge is low and the voltage gauge is maxed. Whats the problem?
I don't know which, but if the oil pressure gauge is electrial and not mechanical, the two could be related since the oil gauge actually measures the amount of current flowing through it and not the oil pressure itself. The sending unit is what measures oil pressure and uses that to impede the flow of current through the gauge.
I guess the first thing you need to do is to check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running to see if it really is overcharging. If not, then it's time to start checking electrical connections and go from there.
Check for a faulty ground wire to the gage cluster.
The wires go switched.
Where's the good place to go to have a honda motorcycle tuned/oil change? with reasonable prices.?
Looking for a certified mechanic with reasonable rates on motorcycles.Where's the good place to go to have a honda motorcycle tuned/oil change? with reasonable prices.?
actually the best place is a Honda dealership because the techs are all Honda certified and they are privy to the factory updates. And of course they are using Honda parts.Little more money than an independant shop but well worth the peace of mindWhere's the good place to go to have a honda motorcycle tuned/oil change? with reasonable prices.?
If you have the place to do it, then I'd say do it yourself. It'll give you that extra ';piece of mind'; as you are riding down the road.
If you don't have the place, tools, time, etc. then take it to the Honda dealership. It may be a bit more pricey but they are certified and it'll be worth it in the long run.
Do it yourself. You aren't talking rocket science for a tune-up and oil change. Nobody will take care of your bike like you will. Besides, if I couldn't do the basics on my bike, I wouldn't own it.
send it back to japan
actually the best place is a Honda dealership because the techs are all Honda certified and they are privy to the factory updates. And of course they are using Honda parts.Little more money than an independant shop but well worth the peace of mindWhere's the good place to go to have a honda motorcycle tuned/oil change? with reasonable prices.?
If you have the place to do it, then I'd say do it yourself. It'll give you that extra ';piece of mind'; as you are riding down the road.
If you don't have the place, tools, time, etc. then take it to the Honda dealership. It may be a bit more pricey but they are certified and it'll be worth it in the long run.
Do it yourself. You aren't talking rocket science for a tune-up and oil change. Nobody will take care of your bike like you will. Besides, if I couldn't do the basics on my bike, I wouldn't own it.
send it back to japan
Is it a problem to add motorcycle oil to your car?
Most motorcycles share the oil between engine %26amp; transmission, so the oil has to be designed to do both jobs. There are other differences as well. Ideally you'd want to use oil that doesn't have additives you don't need; but as long as the oil meets the specs for your car engine, it's not going to hurt anything.Is it a problem to add motorcycle oil to your car?
in the fuel ???Is it a problem to add motorcycle oil to your car?
It's ';2 Cycle Oil'; made to lube the engine and in a car will clog ';Everything!'; Fuel Filters, Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Etc. ';Bad Idea!';
If it wasn't, we would just have oil, wouldn't we. Motorbike oil is called motorbike oil for a reason.soap opera
in the fuel ???Is it a problem to add motorcycle oil to your car?
It's ';2 Cycle Oil'; made to lube the engine and in a car will clog ';Everything!'; Fuel Filters, Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Etc. ';Bad Idea!';
If it wasn't, we would just have oil, wouldn't we. Motorbike oil is called motorbike oil for a reason.
How many miles do i ride before a oil change on a motorcycle?
most of us change it at 3000 miles, after the initial oil change. sooner if your bike requires it. i personally use synthetic oil and have been since 1996. i use it at my first oil change. some people have said synthetic is too slippery. bull***. oil is supposed to be slippery. the properties of synth vs conventional oil in cold and heat have no comparison. synth also stays on the metal in the engine therefore no dry starts after sitting for long periods. a few years ago american iron mag did a very extensive series on this. there are many brands of synth oil out there so shop around if you choose to go this route.
you may also want to learn how to do the oil change yourself. it's easy, you will save lots of money, and you will know it is done and done right.How many miles do i ride before a oil change on a motorcycle?
Use the best you can get, and you can change once a year or 20k miles.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default鈥?/a>How many miles do i ride before a oil change on a motorcycle?
It really depends on the oil your using and the a mount of miles your putting on the bike.
If your using regular oil and put only 3,000 to 4,000 miles on it then once a year.
If you use synthetic oil 5,000 to 10,000 miles, once again at the beginning of each year.
Same as a car.
I was taught every 1500 miles, or once a month, which ever comes first.
Used oil just sitting, deteriorates.
With the new and improved oils on the market, you could probably double those #s.
I use Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Engine Oil 10W40 and I change the oil at 8000 miles, but before that I change the oil filter at 4000 miles and just add enough of new oil in to make up for what I lost changing only the filter.
Synthetic Oil will last almost forever, but the oil filter won't
Depends where you drive....on the pavement all the time or off road in the dirt and dust and mud. When in douobt, change it.
First, read your owners manual it should be in there somewhere. Second, I check my oil every week. If it smells burnt, looks like there is sludge build up, is very cloudy or anything that doesn't look normal, I'll change it. This inspection for the most part ,can help with diagnosis of some problems before they occur. Also pay attention to your oil plug (should have a magnetic one). Oil is cheep an engine is not.
Chet
Every three months or 3000 miles, whichever is first, after your several break-in changes.
If you're riding a higher revving sportbike, more often... and use a synthetic. Check your manual for the manufacturer's recommendations.
3000 miles sounds good to me. Somewhere around there. I suggest you check into motorcycle oil. The oil you put in your bike's engine will also lube the trans and the gears in the trans will subject the oil to extreme pressure. Motorcycle oil is designed to withstand this pressure better and longer. As for synthetic oil, I don't know about it. Most likely your clutch is going to be in oil also. I don't suppose those fiber discs would soak up that super slick oil, then again I just don't know.
tricky question, the standard answer is every 3k miles this is no longer true on many cars and bikes you need to look at the owners manual some of the newer bikes are 5000 and if you are running a blend or a full synth the mileage could be higher but you should change the filter every 3k anyway that is the one thing that will save the most on wear and tear on your motor because it removes a lot of junk from the oil Using molbile 1 on a bike like a zx-7 you could go 15k on the oil ( water cooled, FI, 4cyl) on something like a harley (air cooled,2 cyl) around 5-7500. This is due to the extra heat in an air cooled motor. read the below site note we just redid an 87 883 harely that had been running Moble1 or Castrol synth for 15 years and it have basically no wear on the cylinders the valves etc GL
read your freakin manual
you may also want to learn how to do the oil change yourself. it's easy, you will save lots of money, and you will know it is done and done right.How many miles do i ride before a oil change on a motorcycle?
Use the best you can get, and you can change once a year or 20k miles.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default鈥?/a>How many miles do i ride before a oil change on a motorcycle?
It really depends on the oil your using and the a mount of miles your putting on the bike.
If your using regular oil and put only 3,000 to 4,000 miles on it then once a year.
If you use synthetic oil 5,000 to 10,000 miles, once again at the beginning of each year.
Same as a car.
I was taught every 1500 miles, or once a month, which ever comes first.
Used oil just sitting, deteriorates.
With the new and improved oils on the market, you could probably double those #s.
I use Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Engine Oil 10W40 and I change the oil at 8000 miles, but before that I change the oil filter at 4000 miles and just add enough of new oil in to make up for what I lost changing only the filter.
Synthetic Oil will last almost forever, but the oil filter won't
Depends where you drive....on the pavement all the time or off road in the dirt and dust and mud. When in douobt, change it.
First, read your owners manual it should be in there somewhere. Second, I check my oil every week. If it smells burnt, looks like there is sludge build up, is very cloudy or anything that doesn't look normal, I'll change it. This inspection for the most part ,can help with diagnosis of some problems before they occur. Also pay attention to your oil plug (should have a magnetic one). Oil is cheep an engine is not.
Chet
Every three months or 3000 miles, whichever is first, after your several break-in changes.
If you're riding a higher revving sportbike, more often... and use a synthetic. Check your manual for the manufacturer's recommendations.
3000 miles sounds good to me. Somewhere around there. I suggest you check into motorcycle oil. The oil you put in your bike's engine will also lube the trans and the gears in the trans will subject the oil to extreme pressure. Motorcycle oil is designed to withstand this pressure better and longer. As for synthetic oil, I don't know about it. Most likely your clutch is going to be in oil also. I don't suppose those fiber discs would soak up that super slick oil, then again I just don't know.
tricky question, the standard answer is every 3k miles this is no longer true on many cars and bikes you need to look at the owners manual some of the newer bikes are 5000 and if you are running a blend or a full synth the mileage could be higher but you should change the filter every 3k anyway that is the one thing that will save the most on wear and tear on your motor because it removes a lot of junk from the oil Using molbile 1 on a bike like a zx-7 you could go 15k on the oil ( water cooled, FI, 4cyl) on something like a harley (air cooled,2 cyl) around 5-7500. This is due to the extra heat in an air cooled motor. read the below site note we just redid an 87 883 harely that had been running Moble1 or Castrol synth for 15 years and it have basically no wear on the cylinders the valves etc GL
read your freakin manual
Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
PLZ tell if we can replace the motorcycle engine oil with Diseal Genearator Set Engine oil.? If not then y? Plz send and replyCan we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Diesel engines burn relatively dirty so they need lots of detergents and friction modifiers. Both of these are deadly to motorcycle engines, especially the clutch.Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Come on now! Unfortunately, most of you folks don't know what you're talking about! As far as the busted lawnmower engine, that was due to something else, not the oil. As far as the detergents and carbon build up goes, the only place you're going to find carbon build up is in the cylinder itself, a place where the engine oil isn't going to be. I've taken plenty of motorcycle engines apart and the internals are always much cleaner than auto or industrial engines. That's usually because the air cooled bike engines run hotter.
I run diesel engine oil in my bike (and antique car) with no problems. In fact, I run a combination synthetic/conventional diesel oil meant for older engines. The reason I do is that it still has higher levels of the friction reducer zinc. New gasoline oils have greatly reduced levels (to reduce emmissions). Newer engines with roller tappets are fine with it, but older engines with flat tappets need the greater friction reducing benefits of zinc to lessen tappet and cam lobe wear. I haven't had any clutch problems and I have a big, heavy touring bike.
Look on the oil container and if you're in the US, there should be letter designations like CC, CD or CF. The CD and earlier oils have the higher zinc levels. Use the same grade you would normally use.
You can use to some extent.. however performance will not be guaranteed...
Petrol and diesel engines have different lubrication requirements. During development, lubricants undergo a number of tests, some common to diesel and petrol engines and others specific to one or the other type, that categorize their performances. At the end of this process, they are awarded an API or ACEA/CCMC compliance standard. These specifications characterize the acceptable functioning of the lubricant in each type of petrol or diesel engine. Lubricants for four-stroke engines usually comply with both petrol and diesel specifications. For example, an API SJ/CF lubricant meets petrol specification SJ and diesel specification CF. But this does not necessarily mean that it will perform in the same way in both petrol and diesel engines.
In an emergency yes. long time, no. MC's are air cooled, fairly high revving engines, deseils are low revving,although the generator is also probably air cooled. If u look at all those bubbles in the oil they are there for a reason, different oils let dirt into those bubbles at different tempatures that how its removed from the engine. The motor cycle oil lets dirt in at a different tempature than the desiel oil. The desi el oil won't remove the dirt.
The diesel engine gets ignited by compression and not spark plug method. It is a lower grade oil compared to petrol and has different burning characterstics. You engine will get spoilt if you interchange the fuel. If you still want to try, you can mix a small quantity of diesel with petrol and try out. But be prepared to junk you motorcycle.
diesel rated %26amp; motorcycle oil still has the zink %26amp; other trace heavy metals that they had to remove from automobile oils a couple of years ago.
they had to remove the zddp %26amp; other high pressure antifriction additives from auto oil when they made the manufacturers guarentee the catylitic converters for 150,000 miles.
the metals interfere with the operation of the converters.thats the same reason they had to remove lead from gasoline after72 %26amp; lower the compression so engines would run on low(87) octane unleaded.instead of 92 octane leaded regular.
its recomended that any flat tappet engines use only diesel rated or synthetic oils now to prevent rapid cam wear with the new auto oil.
my harley owners manual actually reads that you can use diesel engine oil in your bike where harley oil is not available.
harley, isn't so kind as to post their api rating on their oil, and i don't care what my manual reads, i ain't putting diesel oil in my bike, so i'm stuck at the mercy of the overinflated price of harley oil until i find their api rating and run an equivalent.
IM not a chemist ( prob cant even spell it ) but like was mentioned to much detergent to trap and clean excess carbon from diesel engines
I used it in a riding lawnmower of all things because i just had diesel oil the mower scattered in less than 10 hours of use so I wouldnt use it in any thing except a diesel
I don't know why you would want to, but if you do you will definitely shorten the life of your bike. Use oil suggested by the manufacturer.It's a little expensive, but a real bargain as opposed to a new engine.
Yes, you can.
bikinkawboy and crash have explained as well as I could.
And, as sn00p says, Harley Davidson recommends it (when you can't get theirs).
No. Diesel engine oil is high-detergent, not suitable for petrol engines. It'll do in an emergency but not for long.
Diesel engines burn relatively dirty so they need lots of detergents and friction modifiers. Both of these are deadly to motorcycle engines, especially the clutch.Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Come on now! Unfortunately, most of you folks don't know what you're talking about! As far as the busted lawnmower engine, that was due to something else, not the oil. As far as the detergents and carbon build up goes, the only place you're going to find carbon build up is in the cylinder itself, a place where the engine oil isn't going to be. I've taken plenty of motorcycle engines apart and the internals are always much cleaner than auto or industrial engines. That's usually because the air cooled bike engines run hotter.
I run diesel engine oil in my bike (and antique car) with no problems. In fact, I run a combination synthetic/conventional diesel oil meant for older engines. The reason I do is that it still has higher levels of the friction reducer zinc. New gasoline oils have greatly reduced levels (to reduce emmissions). Newer engines with roller tappets are fine with it, but older engines with flat tappets need the greater friction reducing benefits of zinc to lessen tappet and cam lobe wear. I haven't had any clutch problems and I have a big, heavy touring bike.
Look on the oil container and if you're in the US, there should be letter designations like CC, CD or CF. The CD and earlier oils have the higher zinc levels. Use the same grade you would normally use.
You can use to some extent.. however performance will not be guaranteed...
Petrol and diesel engines have different lubrication requirements. During development, lubricants undergo a number of tests, some common to diesel and petrol engines and others specific to one or the other type, that categorize their performances. At the end of this process, they are awarded an API or ACEA/CCMC compliance standard. These specifications characterize the acceptable functioning of the lubricant in each type of petrol or diesel engine. Lubricants for four-stroke engines usually comply with both petrol and diesel specifications. For example, an API SJ/CF lubricant meets petrol specification SJ and diesel specification CF. But this does not necessarily mean that it will perform in the same way in both petrol and diesel engines.
In an emergency yes. long time, no. MC's are air cooled, fairly high revving engines, deseils are low revving,although the generator is also probably air cooled. If u look at all those bubbles in the oil they are there for a reason, different oils let dirt into those bubbles at different tempatures that how its removed from the engine. The motor cycle oil lets dirt in at a different tempature than the desiel oil. The desi el oil won't remove the dirt.
The diesel engine gets ignited by compression and not spark plug method. It is a lower grade oil compared to petrol and has different burning characterstics. You engine will get spoilt if you interchange the fuel. If you still want to try, you can mix a small quantity of diesel with petrol and try out. But be prepared to junk you motorcycle.
diesel rated %26amp; motorcycle oil still has the zink %26amp; other trace heavy metals that they had to remove from automobile oils a couple of years ago.
they had to remove the zddp %26amp; other high pressure antifriction additives from auto oil when they made the manufacturers guarentee the catylitic converters for 150,000 miles.
the metals interfere with the operation of the converters.thats the same reason they had to remove lead from gasoline after72 %26amp; lower the compression so engines would run on low(87) octane unleaded.instead of 92 octane leaded regular.
its recomended that any flat tappet engines use only diesel rated or synthetic oils now to prevent rapid cam wear with the new auto oil.
my harley owners manual actually reads that you can use diesel engine oil in your bike where harley oil is not available.
harley, isn't so kind as to post their api rating on their oil, and i don't care what my manual reads, i ain't putting diesel oil in my bike, so i'm stuck at the mercy of the overinflated price of harley oil until i find their api rating and run an equivalent.
IM not a chemist ( prob cant even spell it ) but like was mentioned to much detergent to trap and clean excess carbon from diesel engines
I used it in a riding lawnmower of all things because i just had diesel oil the mower scattered in less than 10 hours of use so I wouldnt use it in any thing except a diesel
I don't know why you would want to, but if you do you will definitely shorten the life of your bike. Use oil suggested by the manufacturer.It's a little expensive, but a real bargain as opposed to a new engine.
Yes, you can.
bikinkawboy and crash have explained as well as I could.
And, as sn00p says, Harley Davidson recommends it (when you can't get theirs).
No. Diesel engine oil is high-detergent, not suitable for petrol engines. It'll do in an emergency but not for long.
How Do I Change My Oil On My Motorcycle?
2007 Yamaha V-Star Custom 650. It's due for it's 4000 mile maintenance, but when I spoke to the dealer, he said all it was was an oil change. I don't want to spend 100 dollars for that, so I'll do it myself. What do I need to know? What kind of oil do I buy, do I need a drip pan? How long do I drain the oil?What do I do when I'm done? If someone could take me step-by-step through the entire process, please. Thanks so much! :-)How Do I Change My Oil On My Motorcycle?
coupla questions to start;
do you have any tools and can you use them? (i'm not being rude, but if you are an edward penishands(everything you touch you fcuk) maybe its best to take it to a mechanic)
do you have a service manual for your bike? if not, either buy one or go to http://www.repairmanualclub.com/ , become a member for free, search and download a manual. these things are gold! tells you everything you ever wanted to know.
by the sounds of your question, this will be the first time you'll have done it so if you are really inimidated, get someone along who knows a bit about bikes (any bikes) to give a helping hand; even if it is to bring the beer!
this is a learning experiance, enjoy it; as you are saving yourself money in the process.How Do I Change My Oil On My Motorcycle?
I agree with most of ';supafly'; but would only put in the exact type of oil that is recommended in the maintenance manual (should have come with bike). I buy Valvoline motorcycle oil from Kragen. You're not supposed to use car oil for the Suzuki Bandit I own.
Also, drive bike beforehand to heat oil. But make sure you don't burn yourself on hot parts. It's easier to take off the oil filter off when it cools a bit (make sure there's a pan underneath to catch the oil from this as well.) Pour used oil into old plastic milk jugs or other transparent bottle, use funnel to get oil into container (cut off 2-Liter bottle as funnel) Take used motor oil to autoparts store like Kragen (call beforehand to find out if they accept it - there should be no charge). Keep paper towels handy for cleanup.
Good luck. You'll know it was done right if you do it yourself.
Do yourself a favor, get a service manual for the bike. Seriously, it is a ';must have'; to work on your bike. I understand not wanting to pay to have the service doen, I have always done the service on all my bikes. But with the manual. it is so much easier to do. It is a one time investment to purchase it at the dealership and will pay for itself with the first time you use it.
Good luck and ride safe.
the owner's handbook should tell you what kind of oil you need. probably fully-synthetic and a viscosity rating such as 15-40 or 10-30
if the drain plug is not on the same side of the engine as the propstand then get the bike level to drain the oil
does the bike have a replaceable oil filter? (ie a canister) if so, get a new one and replace it using a NEW RUBBER GASKET, which may be supplied with the oil filter.
if the oil drain plug has a round brass ring under it as a gasket, you should get a new brass ring as they are designed to compress when fitted and are likely to leak if used more than once.
you could get a Haynes or perhaps a Clymer manual for the V-Star.
heh, funny you should ask, I just changed the oil on my bike last night.
1) Go to an online parts dealer, Ronayers.com, mineolamoto.com, etc. Locate your particular make and model in the online fiche. Find the oil filter, for my bike it was located on the Oil Pan diagram.
2) Print that out.
3) Highlight the price of an oil filter.
4) Go to your local Yamaha dealer. If your local dealer has a website, print out the oil filter diagram there.
5) Walk up to the parts counter, and ask for an oil filter for your bike. The parts guy will hand it over and tell you it's $13.
6) Ask him why the website says the price is $8, and if he'll sell it to you for $8.
* Last night at the parts counter, the guy charged me $13, which I thought was excessive, so I went to their very own website, and the price is listed in there as $8.22. I'm going to call them in a little bit and complain.
7) Go to Wal Mart or auto parts store. Buy 1 gallon of Shell Rotella 15w40 oil, a funnel, some mechanics hand cleaner, and a roll of paper towels. A catch (drain) pan, and oil filter wrench are helpful, but not required. Bring the replacement filter in to find the correct size filter wrench, if you decide to get one. This stuff will usually be cheaper at Wal Mart. Buy some sockets too, if you don't already have them.
8) Go home. Find the oil plug. This will be a bolt (usually 13/16';) on the bottom of the oil pan. That's going to be at the bottom of the engine. If you're having trouble finding the exact location of the plug, go back to one of those online parts fiches. You can find it there.
9) Find some sort of basin or container that has a minimum capacity of 1 gallon.
10) Put that under the oil pan. If you got that drain pan, use that.
11) Take the drain plug off.
12) Try not to drop it in the drain pan.
13) Look at it. There'll be a magnet on the top of the part that was in the oil pan. That will have tiny metal shavings and metal dust on it. Wipe it clean on a paper towel.
14) When the oil draining slows, get on the bike and rock it back and forth.
15) Put the plug back in when there's no more oil coiming out.
16) Take out the new filter.
17) Look at it.
18) Look around your bike and find the filter thats on there already.
19) Put the catch (drain) pan under the filter.
20) Take it off.
21) Dump out the oil that's in there into the catch pan.
22) If you managed to get that filter off without having it covered in oil, put it in the box the replacement filter came in. Otherwise, put it in a plastic supermarket bag first.
23) Find out how much oil you're supposed to put in. This will usually be between 3 and 4 quarts.
24) Find the fill cap, usually located on the right hand side of the bike, on the transmission.
25) Take off the cap.
26) Put the funnel in.
27) Fill it up with oil. Don't overfill.
28) Take the used oil and filter down to jiffy lube or a mechanics shop. They're required by law in NY state to take used oil from anyone.
29) Go drink a beer.
Any questions? Type them into google.com.
just one thing
take your bike out for a ride first to warm the oil up ...and replace the washer aswell
otherwise it will take a longgggggggg time to drain
lol... well, since it's your first time and it's due just get the oil and filter from the dealer. Download or buy the manual for your bike. put an oil pan under the bike, take out the oil plug(17mm), take off the oil filter, rub some fresh oil around the lip of the new filter, put it on, put the drain plug back in torqued to spec. Fill with oil to spec.
put the oil in a milk jug and drop it off at auto zone.
u let the oil drain all the way out.... get expensive motorcycle oil.... when its all done dripping into the oil pan put the plug back into the motor and poor how ever much the manual says to put in... and dont let your bike run on no 4000 oil change your probably scratching pistons getting shavings in the motor.... go with 3500 mile change at the most.. try to make it between 2000 and 3000
coupla questions to start;
do you have any tools and can you use them? (i'm not being rude, but if you are an edward penishands(everything you touch you fcuk) maybe its best to take it to a mechanic)
do you have a service manual for your bike? if not, either buy one or go to http://www.repairmanualclub.com/ , become a member for free, search and download a manual. these things are gold! tells you everything you ever wanted to know.
by the sounds of your question, this will be the first time you'll have done it so if you are really inimidated, get someone along who knows a bit about bikes (any bikes) to give a helping hand; even if it is to bring the beer!
this is a learning experiance, enjoy it; as you are saving yourself money in the process.How Do I Change My Oil On My Motorcycle?
I agree with most of ';supafly'; but would only put in the exact type of oil that is recommended in the maintenance manual (should have come with bike). I buy Valvoline motorcycle oil from Kragen. You're not supposed to use car oil for the Suzuki Bandit I own.
Also, drive bike beforehand to heat oil. But make sure you don't burn yourself on hot parts. It's easier to take off the oil filter off when it cools a bit (make sure there's a pan underneath to catch the oil from this as well.) Pour used oil into old plastic milk jugs or other transparent bottle, use funnel to get oil into container (cut off 2-Liter bottle as funnel) Take used motor oil to autoparts store like Kragen (call beforehand to find out if they accept it - there should be no charge). Keep paper towels handy for cleanup.
Good luck. You'll know it was done right if you do it yourself.
Do yourself a favor, get a service manual for the bike. Seriously, it is a ';must have'; to work on your bike. I understand not wanting to pay to have the service doen, I have always done the service on all my bikes. But with the manual. it is so much easier to do. It is a one time investment to purchase it at the dealership and will pay for itself with the first time you use it.
Good luck and ride safe.
the owner's handbook should tell you what kind of oil you need. probably fully-synthetic and a viscosity rating such as 15-40 or 10-30
if the drain plug is not on the same side of the engine as the propstand then get the bike level to drain the oil
does the bike have a replaceable oil filter? (ie a canister) if so, get a new one and replace it using a NEW RUBBER GASKET, which may be supplied with the oil filter.
if the oil drain plug has a round brass ring under it as a gasket, you should get a new brass ring as they are designed to compress when fitted and are likely to leak if used more than once.
you could get a Haynes or perhaps a Clymer manual for the V-Star.
heh, funny you should ask, I just changed the oil on my bike last night.
1) Go to an online parts dealer, Ronayers.com, mineolamoto.com, etc. Locate your particular make and model in the online fiche. Find the oil filter, for my bike it was located on the Oil Pan diagram.
2) Print that out.
3) Highlight the price of an oil filter.
4) Go to your local Yamaha dealer. If your local dealer has a website, print out the oil filter diagram there.
5) Walk up to the parts counter, and ask for an oil filter for your bike. The parts guy will hand it over and tell you it's $13.
6) Ask him why the website says the price is $8, and if he'll sell it to you for $8.
* Last night at the parts counter, the guy charged me $13, which I thought was excessive, so I went to their very own website, and the price is listed in there as $8.22. I'm going to call them in a little bit and complain.
7) Go to Wal Mart or auto parts store. Buy 1 gallon of Shell Rotella 15w40 oil, a funnel, some mechanics hand cleaner, and a roll of paper towels. A catch (drain) pan, and oil filter wrench are helpful, but not required. Bring the replacement filter in to find the correct size filter wrench, if you decide to get one. This stuff will usually be cheaper at Wal Mart. Buy some sockets too, if you don't already have them.
8) Go home. Find the oil plug. This will be a bolt (usually 13/16';) on the bottom of the oil pan. That's going to be at the bottom of the engine. If you're having trouble finding the exact location of the plug, go back to one of those online parts fiches. You can find it there.
9) Find some sort of basin or container that has a minimum capacity of 1 gallon.
10) Put that under the oil pan. If you got that drain pan, use that.
11) Take the drain plug off.
12) Try not to drop it in the drain pan.
13) Look at it. There'll be a magnet on the top of the part that was in the oil pan. That will have tiny metal shavings and metal dust on it. Wipe it clean on a paper towel.
14) When the oil draining slows, get on the bike and rock it back and forth.
15) Put the plug back in when there's no more oil coiming out.
16) Take out the new filter.
17) Look at it.
18) Look around your bike and find the filter thats on there already.
19) Put the catch (drain) pan under the filter.
20) Take it off.
21) Dump out the oil that's in there into the catch pan.
22) If you managed to get that filter off without having it covered in oil, put it in the box the replacement filter came in. Otherwise, put it in a plastic supermarket bag first.
23) Find out how much oil you're supposed to put in. This will usually be between 3 and 4 quarts.
24) Find the fill cap, usually located on the right hand side of the bike, on the transmission.
25) Take off the cap.
26) Put the funnel in.
27) Fill it up with oil. Don't overfill.
28) Take the used oil and filter down to jiffy lube or a mechanics shop. They're required by law in NY state to take used oil from anyone.
29) Go drink a beer.
Any questions? Type them into google.com.
just one thing
take your bike out for a ride first to warm the oil up ...and replace the washer aswell
otherwise it will take a longgggggggg time to drain
lol... well, since it's your first time and it's due just get the oil and filter from the dealer. Download or buy the manual for your bike. put an oil pan under the bike, take out the oil plug(17mm), take off the oil filter, rub some fresh oil around the lip of the new filter, put it on, put the drain plug back in torqued to spec. Fill with oil to spec.
put the oil in a milk jug and drop it off at auto zone.
u let the oil drain all the way out.... get expensive motorcycle oil.... when its all done dripping into the oil pan put the plug back into the motor and poor how ever much the manual says to put in... and dont let your bike run on no 4000 oil change your probably scratching pistons getting shavings in the motor.... go with 3500 mile change at the most.. try to make it between 2000 and 3000
Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
PLZ tell if we can replace the motorcycle engine oil with Diseal Genearator Set Engine oil.? If not then y? Plz send and replyCan we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Diesel engines burn relatively dirty so they need lots of detergents and friction modifiers. Both of these are deadly to motorcycle engines, especially the clutch.Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Come on now! Unfortunately, most of you folks don't know what you're talking about! As far as the busted lawnmower engine, that was due to something else, not the oil. As far as the detergents and carbon build up goes, the only place you're going to find carbon build up is in the cylinder itself, a place where the engine oil isn't going to be. I've taken plenty of motorcycle engines apart and the internals are always much cleaner than auto or industrial engines. That's usually because the air cooled bike engines run hotter.
I run diesel engine oil in my bike (and antique car) with no problems. In fact, I run a combination synthetic/conventional diesel oil meant for older engines. The reason I do is that it still has higher levels of the friction reducer zinc. New gasoline oils have greatly reduced levels (to reduce emmissions). Newer engines with roller tappets are fine with it, but older engines with flat tappets need the greater friction reducing benefits of zinc to lessen tappet and cam lobe wear. I haven't had any clutch problems and I have a big, heavy touring bike.
Look on the oil container and if you're in the US, there should be letter designations like CC, CD or CF. The CD and earlier oils have the higher zinc levels. Use the same grade you would normally use.
You can use to some extent.. however performance will not be guaranteed...
Petrol and diesel engines have different lubrication requirements. During development, lubricants undergo a number of tests, some common to diesel and petrol engines and others specific to one or the other type, that categorize their performances. At the end of this process, they are awarded an API or ACEA/CCMC compliance standard. These specifications characterize the acceptable functioning of the lubricant in each type of petrol or diesel engine. Lubricants for four-stroke engines usually comply with both petrol and diesel specifications. For example, an API SJ/CF lubricant meets petrol specification SJ and diesel specification CF. But this does not necessarily mean that it will perform in the same way in both petrol and diesel engines.
In an emergency yes. long time, no. MC's are air cooled, fairly high revving engines, deseils are low revving,although the generator is also probably air cooled. If u look at all those bubbles in the oil they are there for a reason, different oils let dirt into those bubbles at different tempatures that how its removed from the engine. The motor cycle oil lets dirt in at a different tempature than the desiel oil. The desi el oil won't remove the dirt.
The diesel engine gets ignited by compression and not spark plug method. It is a lower grade oil compared to petrol and has different burning characterstics. You engine will get spoilt if you interchange the fuel. If you still want to try, you can mix a small quantity of diesel with petrol and try out. But be prepared to junk you motorcycle.
diesel rated %26amp; motorcycle oil still has the zink %26amp; other trace heavy metals that they had to remove from automobile oils a couple of years ago.
they had to remove the zddp %26amp; other high pressure antifriction additives from auto oil when they made the manufacturers guarentee the catylitic converters for 150,000 miles.
the metals interfere with the operation of the converters.thats the same reason they had to remove lead from gasoline after72 %26amp; lower the compression so engines would run on low(87) octane unleaded.instead of 92 octane leaded regular.
its recomended that any flat tappet engines use only diesel rated or synthetic oils now to prevent rapid cam wear with the new auto oil.
my harley owners manual actually reads that you can use diesel engine oil in your bike where harley oil is not available.
harley, isn't so kind as to post their api rating on their oil, and i don't care what my manual reads, i ain't putting diesel oil in my bike, so i'm stuck at the mercy of the overinflated price of harley oil until i find their api rating and run an equivalent.
IM not a chemist ( prob cant even spell it ) but like was mentioned to much detergent to trap and clean excess carbon from diesel engines
I used it in a riding lawnmower of all things because i just had diesel oil the mower scattered in less than 10 hours of use so I wouldnt use it in any thing except a diesel
I don't know why you would want to, but if you do you will definitely shorten the life of your bike. Use oil suggested by the manufacturer.It's a little expensive, but a real bargain as opposed to a new engine.
Yes, you can.
bikinkawboy and crash have explained as well as I could.
And, as sn00p says, Harley Davidson recommends it (when you can't get theirs).
No. Diesel engine oil is high-detergent, not suitable for petrol engines. It'll do in an emergency but not for long.
Diesel engines burn relatively dirty so they need lots of detergents and friction modifiers. Both of these are deadly to motorcycle engines, especially the clutch.Can we fill Diseal Engine Oil in Motorcycle?
Come on now! Unfortunately, most of you folks don't know what you're talking about! As far as the busted lawnmower engine, that was due to something else, not the oil. As far as the detergents and carbon build up goes, the only place you're going to find carbon build up is in the cylinder itself, a place where the engine oil isn't going to be. I've taken plenty of motorcycle engines apart and the internals are always much cleaner than auto or industrial engines. That's usually because the air cooled bike engines run hotter.
I run diesel engine oil in my bike (and antique car) with no problems. In fact, I run a combination synthetic/conventional diesel oil meant for older engines. The reason I do is that it still has higher levels of the friction reducer zinc. New gasoline oils have greatly reduced levels (to reduce emmissions). Newer engines with roller tappets are fine with it, but older engines with flat tappets need the greater friction reducing benefits of zinc to lessen tappet and cam lobe wear. I haven't had any clutch problems and I have a big, heavy touring bike.
Look on the oil container and if you're in the US, there should be letter designations like CC, CD or CF. The CD and earlier oils have the higher zinc levels. Use the same grade you would normally use.
You can use to some extent.. however performance will not be guaranteed...
Petrol and diesel engines have different lubrication requirements. During development, lubricants undergo a number of tests, some common to diesel and petrol engines and others specific to one or the other type, that categorize their performances. At the end of this process, they are awarded an API or ACEA/CCMC compliance standard. These specifications characterize the acceptable functioning of the lubricant in each type of petrol or diesel engine. Lubricants for four-stroke engines usually comply with both petrol and diesel specifications. For example, an API SJ/CF lubricant meets petrol specification SJ and diesel specification CF. But this does not necessarily mean that it will perform in the same way in both petrol and diesel engines.
In an emergency yes. long time, no. MC's are air cooled, fairly high revving engines, deseils are low revving,although the generator is also probably air cooled. If u look at all those bubbles in the oil they are there for a reason, different oils let dirt into those bubbles at different tempatures that how its removed from the engine. The motor cycle oil lets dirt in at a different tempature than the desiel oil. The desi el oil won't remove the dirt.
The diesel engine gets ignited by compression and not spark plug method. It is a lower grade oil compared to petrol and has different burning characterstics. You engine will get spoilt if you interchange the fuel. If you still want to try, you can mix a small quantity of diesel with petrol and try out. But be prepared to junk you motorcycle.
diesel rated %26amp; motorcycle oil still has the zink %26amp; other trace heavy metals that they had to remove from automobile oils a couple of years ago.
they had to remove the zddp %26amp; other high pressure antifriction additives from auto oil when they made the manufacturers guarentee the catylitic converters for 150,000 miles.
the metals interfere with the operation of the converters.thats the same reason they had to remove lead from gasoline after72 %26amp; lower the compression so engines would run on low(87) octane unleaded.instead of 92 octane leaded regular.
its recomended that any flat tappet engines use only diesel rated or synthetic oils now to prevent rapid cam wear with the new auto oil.
my harley owners manual actually reads that you can use diesel engine oil in your bike where harley oil is not available.
harley, isn't so kind as to post their api rating on their oil, and i don't care what my manual reads, i ain't putting diesel oil in my bike, so i'm stuck at the mercy of the overinflated price of harley oil until i find their api rating and run an equivalent.
IM not a chemist ( prob cant even spell it ) but like was mentioned to much detergent to trap and clean excess carbon from diesel engines
I used it in a riding lawnmower of all things because i just had diesel oil the mower scattered in less than 10 hours of use so I wouldnt use it in any thing except a diesel
I don't know why you would want to, but if you do you will definitely shorten the life of your bike. Use oil suggested by the manufacturer.It's a little expensive, but a real bargain as opposed to a new engine.
Yes, you can.
bikinkawboy and crash have explained as well as I could.
And, as sn00p says, Harley Davidson recommends it (when you can't get theirs).
No. Diesel engine oil is high-detergent, not suitable for petrol engines. It'll do in an emergency but not for long.
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